After years of uncertainty, the American Jewish craft beer label Shmaltz Brewing Company appears to have finally found some solid ground.
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Things began taking a turn for the better when Jesse Epstein, a 26-year-old Reform rabbinical student at Hebrew Union College, became the new owner in late 2022.
Founded in San Francisco in 1996 but now based in New York City, Shmaltz spent 25 years as the king of Jewish craft beer, famous for its witty named brews with clever flavors, like David’s Slingshot Hoppy Summer Lager, a jelly donut-flavored Hanukkah ale, and a Babka Loves Rugelach stout (brewed with chocolate, cinnamon and raisins).
Epstein purchased Shmaltz Brewing Company from Jeremy Cowan, the founder who decided to shut down the label to focus on his other businesses. Although only 26, Epstein had already developed a hobby in home brewing during the COVID-19 pandemic and jumped on the chance to work his love of beer into his rabbinical pursuits.
The revamped Shmaltz, working for now, with an all-volunteer staff, is making Jewish practice and ritual as much a part of its brand as the shtick. Its first year under Epstein’s ownership will consist of a series of pop-up events in partnership with various Jewish groups.
At these gatherings, Epstein says, his training as a rabbi will be put into action. “Build community, do justice, look at a text, but over a pint of beer.” He sees Shmaltz as a peer of Jewish young-adult gathering projects such as Moishe House, OneTable and Base. But he says it will rely on a for-profit business model rather than institutional Jewish support.
In one of the happenings in Brooklyn, Epstein revealed some of his plans for the near future. He said that while it is indeed risky to buy a company that is shutting down, he believes in the brand and in himself enough to see a bright future.
Epstein said he has a close circle of friends and family that advise him, as well as lawyers, accountants, and rabbis. Combining rabbinical studies with his demanding new field, he says he has no problem working for a Jewish brewing company in place of a synagogue, both of which are able to build a strong community.
The young entrepreneur said that he dreams of one day integrating the renewed Shmaltz brews into Israel's craft beer scene. He hopes that his beers will bring pride to the Jewish community and Israeli identity.
JTA has contributed to this publication.