A Vacation From Myself in Sinai
SINAI DESERT - It is time to deal with my fears, so I pack a bathing suit, sunscreen lotion, two bed sheets, two towels, two T-shirts, mosquito repellant spray, a flashlight, and four books. On the bus to Eilat I feel a sudden sense of excitement. After all, I had not been to Sinai in over a decade, and now I am finally going – alone.
I take the five-hour midnight bus ride to Eilat, (NIS 110, about $24), then hop on another bus to Taba (NIS 6.4, about $1.40), and cross the border into Egypt (NIS 71, about $16). I am finally in Sinai.
Tip No.1: Adopt a Beduin
It is 7 a.m., and already hot. I hallucinate in the back seat of a taxicab cramped with complete strangers, and 40 minutes later I arrive at my destination: Nirvana Beach.
The cab drops me off straight into the manly arms of Salach, my Beduin. Your Beduin is the man you turn to when any problem needs fixing, or when you want an elaborate lock (two nails) installed on the door of your hut.
I examine the bamboo huts (NIS 8 a night, about $1.70), look out at the sea, look at Salach, who promises to protect me, and say to myself: “Wow, this is cool, I'm staying right here!”
My hut, although it contains only a carpet, three thin mattresses, and two pillows, is considered a deluxe hut because it has a working electric light bulb (there is no switch, so before going to sleep I must unscrew it).
Nirvana Beach is located on the coast of a bay in the Bir Zrair area, where you will find dozens of beaches with promising names, such as Magic Land, White Sand, and Shanti. Every beach is a little different than the other, and on two of them I see billiard tables.
Tip No. 2: Search for an upgraded shower
Small barriers made of stones separate the beaches, but this does not stop me from infiltrating the nearby beach to use its showers (for it is said: the neighbor's hut is always greener).
Hours pass. I tan for a while, relax on a hammock, and meet eight-year-old Maya, who came with her parents and seems similar to me in her mentality.
Evening approaches, and I realize how much I hate eating alone. In fact, it depresses me so, I am willing to befriend anyone who would join me for dinner. I try to make friends with Maya's parents and their friends, but shortly thereafter I find myself babysitting two babies.
In the middle of my first night, I am awakened by sounds of an animal in my hut. I think it is a mouse, and hope it isn't a rat. I find my flashlight, but, alas, it doesn’t work. I carried a heavy flashlight with three batteries to Sinai, and in the moment of truth it fails me. The mouse leaves, but I cannot get back to sleep. That's the way it is, baby. You wanted Sinai. You wanted a hut.
Tip No. 3: The money is in the food
The following afternoon, after a nap on the hammock, I walk to nearby Shanti Beach for Greek salad. There I find out Maya's parents were scolded by Salach for eating lunch on a different beach.
It is important to understand the beach operators make most of their profit from meals and taxicab rides, which are relatively expensive. The NIS 8 (about $1.70) a night hut is just a way to lure tourists. Thus, a day in Sinai may cost you about NIS 100 (about $22).
So, if you do not want to agitate your Beduin, eat on his beach (unless the food he offers is really bad). The last thing you want is a bitter Beduin or Egyptian.
So what do people eat in Sinai? Well, during my six days there I eat eight Greek salads, one falafel, one terrific pancake, two omelets, and one bowl of cornflakes, which, to my surprise, is served with chopped apples, milk, and honey on the side. Most people order fish, but I don't (I don't order meat or chicken either).
Tip No. 4: Night swimming
The following morning I move to White Sand Beach. The water is cool and clear, and the sand is beautiful, as promised.
I feel as if I am on a vacation from myself, and I am surprised my name is still Yael, and I still speak Hebrew. I feel so far away from home, and from myself. I cannot believe how scared I was on the first night. Now I feel as if I am in the safest place in the world. This is the ultimate in peace and quiet.
On my fifth and last night, the scorching heat wakes me up in the middle of the night, so I take a dip in the cool sea. It is great.
The following morning I wake up to sounds of waves crashing on the beach. The sea is angry. Is it because I am leaving? I promise I would be back.
