Kosher and proud of it
It used to be that using kosher and gourmet in the same sentence sounded almost obscene to both groups. But an increasing number of restaurants know how to separate the entrecote from the creme brulee
If in the past the kosher crowd had to travel to hidden, dark corners for a meal in a restaurant that upheld the laws of kashrut, today the choice is wide, including the very centers of Israel’s most popular culinary districts like Herzliya and Tel Aviv as well as Ra'anana, Rishon Lezion, Ashdod, Eilat and the Golan Heights.
Even though these restaurants are closed on the days secular Israelis love to eat out – Friday night and Saturday afternoon – they still have great business potential during the week, and on Saturday night. If once, kosher cuisine meant the "Jewish kitchen" and simple comfort dishes, today’s restaurants come with a chef and there’s fusion, beautifully presented dishes alongside the ethnic and traditional cuisine.
The kosher gourmet trend is gaining momentum with dishes and a fusion of tastes proving there is a future even when the kid is not boiled in its mother’s milk and in desserts where there is no cream or cafe au lait.
New places
Many new restaurants showcase the new wave of kashrut:Moma is in Ashdod’s Star Center and is the collaboration of Haim Revivo and Jackie Ben Zaken. It is a spacious bistro with a high-tech decor and lighting. A grand piano in the main room is used for musical evenings and in the center of the restaurant is a New York-style bar offering a well-stocked liquor inventory from around the world. For openers, diners are served an herbed focaccia with spreads. Among the first courses: grouper kebabs, green salad with techina, fish stuffed with fresh coriander. Entrees include spring chicken with chili and pomegranates, tagine of beef and root vegetables. Moma 08-8520200
Yamaka in Herzliya was opened by chef Ido Shapira who has worked for Madonna, Bjork and David Bowie. When he returned to Israel he decided to open a kosher restaurant to supplement his catering business. Shapira puts as much into the design of the plate as he does into what is on it. For example, the first course of seared tuna wrapped in black pepper alongside mango salad. There are also salmon croquettes in wasabe sauce or ceviche on a bed of cracked wheat. Entrees include rockfish wrapped in coconut on a bed of zabaglione. For desert: seasonal fruit salad with custard apple sorbet, tapioca in coconut milk, chocolate falafel with strawberry sorbet. 09-9562090
Oro was born two years ago at the gas station at the entrance to Moshav Galia. The second branch is located in an abandoned building in the industrial area of Rishon Lezion which has been redecorated in shades of gold and boasts a wine bar stocked with more than 2,000 bottles. Itzik Levy decided to create an upscale restaurant featuring Moroccan dishes and Mediterranean influence. The menu features several kinds of tagine which are served in tradition ceramic dishes accompanied by seven kinds of couscous. There is entrecote in red wine, lamb ribs, sea bream and St. Peter’s fish as well. Desserts are also based on the traditional Moroccan recipes. Rishon Lezion 03-9507085
Mima opened in the business district opposite the Renanim shopping mall in Ra'anana. The restaurant’s decor is earthy and creates a homey atmosphere. Chef Uri Wexler uses aged beef in his dishes. There are also fish, pastas, and fresh salads as well as fruit salads for desert. Among the featured items: vegetable salad with sugared pecans, pomella and figs, Osso Buco with root vegetables, entrecote or lamb ribs. 09-7418766, Hacharoshet 40, Raanana
Meat and Wine was founded by the South African restaurant chain which expanded into Australia. In Israel the company decided to make the restaurant kosher. Beef is imported from Australia and undergoes an aging process in Israel. The restaurant bar boasts a wine collection of 1,000 bottles. There is an open kitchen, private meeting rooms and outdoor seating surrounded by lush vegetation. First courses include beef carpaccio, red tuna tartare. Entrees include 250-500 gram steaks, beef spareribs, and hot chocolate fondue or pavlova.
Shenkar 16, Herzliya Pituach, 09-9567006
The decor at Canela in Jerusalem bespokes an elegance with its leather furniture and chandelier, its bar and piano in the main room. The menu is the work of chef Ronen Dovrat Block and is described as a Mediterranean French fusion. The kitchen is overseen by chef Lior Heftzadi. First courses include ravioli served with an aubergine puree. Entrees include veal fillet with root puree, Cornish hen with pate. Shlomzion Hamalka 8. 02-6222293
Bistro 56 is located in the Herzliya Marina facing the sea, the yachts and the breeze off the water. The restaurant has had its culinary ups and downs until chef Gabi Ohana took over the kitchen two and a half years ago. New first courses include steak carpaccio, homemade foccacia, warm foie gras or chicken liver pate. Entrees include beef fillet with warm pate, crispy fish or salmon fillet served on a bed of gnocchi. Orna shopping Mall, Herzliya, 09-9565181
Hotels:
Chef-operated restaurants have opened in hotels as well. Chef Moty Buchbut offers a rich brunch every Friday afternoon at the Crown Plaza in Jerusalem. The changing menu includes fresh salads, soups, pastas, quiche, lasagna, stir-fried vegetables and more. 02-6588888.
Olive Leaf in the Sheraton Tel Aviv offers diners a scenic view of the sea and the dishes created by chef Itamar Cohen. There is a business lunch and an a la carte menu in the evening. Entrees include sea bass with pepper salsa or ribs in mushroom sauce. Deserts include chocolate pasta with ice cream. 03-5219300
Pacific is located in the Crown Plaza in Tel Aviv and offers a business lunch during the day and the chef’s menu in the evening. First courses include guacamole with mango and seared tuna, osso buco in black beer, salmon with olives, cherry tomatoes and capers. Entrees include sofrito, lamb kababs, roast beef and steak. 03-5201169
Darna, a Moroccan restaurant in Jerusalem
Shalom Kadosh, one of Israel’s most famous chefs, still reigns at the Primavera restaurant in the Sheraton Plaza Hotel in Jerusalem. His first courses include seared red tuna, broscuta with spreads, rich soups. Entrees include crepes filled with ricotta and spinach, gnocchi, sea bass ravioli. For dessert there is tiramisu, chocolate symphony. 02-6298691
In the kitchen of Gazpacho in the Holiday Inn in Ashkelon is chef Guy Peretz. His menu showcases an international fare that reflects his travels. Entrees include filet mignon and lamb ribs, Norwegian salmon in a teriyaki sauce or St. Peters Fish in a tomato sauce. 08-6748886.
There are many more restaurants worth mentioning around the country including many which have been around for a long time. Darna, a Moroccan restaurant in Jerusalem, showcases authentic cuisine served in ceramic dishes of that country. Waiters dressed in traditional costume serve up such entrees as pastilla, harira soup, and salads. Entrees include tangines with beef or lamb and seasonal fruit. Couscous and fish are also on the menu. 02-6245406
Gazpacho's chef, Guy Peretz
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