Greco's 12 gods pastry. Heavenly taste
Photo: Buzzy Gordon
Tel Aviv’s taverna brings Greece to your table
Authenticity is the hallmark of Greco, a Greek restaurant and bar typical of Israel's eastern Mediterranean neighbor.
There is a subtle difference between the blue-and-white colors representing Israel and those symbolizing Greece; but these same colors highlighting the exterior of Greco leave no doubt that one is entering a taverna typical of our eastern Mediterranean neighbor.
My companion ordered the Zeus - Greek brandy mixed with citrus liqueur and lemon. It is a good choice for those who like their cocktails on the sweet side.
The English-language menu encourages diners to order a glass of ouzo while perusing its offerings, then proceeds to list some interesting house cocktails based on Greek spirits. Unfortunately, the "Greek mojito" is temporarily unavailable due to a scarcity in the market of mstika liqueur, so the bartender recommended the Mikonos, which combines a premium ouzo with pineapple, pineapple liqueur and orange. The anise flavor of the liquor is pervasive without being overpowering, making for a refreshing drink on a warm afternoon.
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The tradition here is to order appetizers from the menu’s selections of cold and warm small plates, by handing a handwritten list to your server. There are so many to choose from, that one option is to order Disko - comprising your top 10 choices of cold starters.
Top 10 choices of cold starters (Photo: Buzzy Gordon)
We let our friendly waitress do the choosing for us, and the dishes came quickly and simultaneously, beginning with dolmades, stuffed grape leaves drizzled with tzatziki. The rice filling had the consistency of kishka and a vinegary sweetness quite unlike the versions found in Mizrahi restaurants in Israel.
One of my favorite Greek foods is skordalia, and the Greco version is as good as I have ever tasted anywhere - intensely garlicky, with an interesting twist: a layer of slivered almonds that lend a pleasant crunch to the creamy dip.
The octopus was reminiscent of a ceviche, with pure olive oil and slivers of red onion substituting for the lime-chili marinade. The freshness of the seafood was evident - a good indication that the shrimp and calamari dishes on the menu would be of similar quality.
Far and away the most surprising of the appetizers was Greco’s 12 gods pastry - phyllo dough stuffed with feta cheese, still warm, with a crisp exterior and swimming in honey garnished with black and white sesame seeds. The name is very appropriate, because the taste is heavenly. (Jars of the amber nectar bearing the Greco label are also for sale to take home.)
Greek restaurant in north Tel Aviv (Photo: Buzzy Gordon)
Moving on to the main courses, we tried several of the restaurant’s signature dishes, starting with the fava bean mash piled high with veal and lamb gyros, the Greek equivalent of our shawarma. Heeding our waitress’ advice once again, we moistened the meat with a generous squirt of fresh lemon - just what was needed to offset the dryness of the charred meat and bring out the inherent flavor of the pungent mixture.
Greek dishes don’t get any more classical than moussaka, served here in its own individual casserole. The ground beef, eggplant and potato stew in béchamel sauce is so filling we could not finish it and had to take half of it home -- which turned out to be a good thing: being left to sit for 24 hours allowed the ingredients to meld, thus improving with age.
Our souvlaki choice was skewers of ground veal kebab, served with a mound of sliced red onion and tehina and tzatziki dips. The grilled meat was so juicy and flavorful that there was no need for either condiment; clearly, the star of our entrees.
My recollection of Greek desserts was along the lines of baklava, so here again we were in for a surprise. Two huge scoops of ice cream made from goat’s milk yogurt - like a tangy gelato - were the centerpiece of a delicious raspberry sundae, topped with roasted almonds.
Still, the ultimate kudos go to the ravani - a milky semolina cake fried to golden perfection and drenched in a rich toffee sauce. Simply outstanding, and excellent washed down with a frothy Greek coffee.
Greco
25 Uri Tzvi Ginsberg St., Azorei Hen, Tel Aviv
Tel. 972-3-741-1022
