Even steak gets additional representation in the winter menu, in the form of 'reserve cut'
Photo: Buzzy Gordon
Jerusalem’s strictly kosher 'New York' steakhouse
Adhering to religious dietary laws and enjoying fine dining are not mutually exclusive experiences, as a visit to the Red Heifer proves beyond any doubt.
It is no secret that the dining scenes of Tel Aviv and Jerusalem are different, not least because the residents of the latter are much more likely to observe kashrut.
The restaurant’s triple pedigree is impressive:
But that does not mean that adhering to religious dietary laws and enjoying fine dining are mutually exclusive experiences - as one visit to the Red Heifer proves beyond any doubt.
Bon Appetit!
Buzzy Gordon
Avi Levi, who won the second season of Channel 2's competitive cooking show, opens Chiripom in downtown Tel Aviv.
1. The beef is top-notch, from a family that knows its meat: The Red Heifer is a sister restaurant to New York City’s Wolf & Lamb.
2. The chef, Levi Laine, earned his bona fides by training with the best, in the kitchens of the Dan Carmel hotel chain. Prior to coming to the Red Heifer, he was grillmaster at the King David’s La Regence.
3. The kashrut supervision is Badatz Mehadrin under the rather exclusive supervision of Rav Rubin. Among the circles that comprise the bulk of the Red Heifer’s clientele, this is saying something.
The hospitality of proprietor Yossi Wuensch is evident in the excellent and friendly service, provided by primarily English-speaking staff. Wuensch also wisely gives Laine a free hand in the kitchen, encouraging his creativity and approving seasonal menu changes.
"We make everything from scratch, fresh every day," says Laine. "This goes for all the sauces, and even the condiments, like ketchup and mayonnaise."
Chocolate fudge cake (Photo: Buzzy Gordon)
This month, the Red Heifer introduced its winter menu, featuring new appetizers, as well as entrees that add beef-centric comfort foods to the restaurant’s signature steaks.
The first starter we tried was eggplant grilled over an open fire, served with salsa and tehina. The eggplant reminded me of the Arabic saying to the effect that the purple vegetable is "meat without bones": it was fleshy, smoky, delicious and complemented perfectly by the slightly piquant tomato salsa and the delicate, creamy tehina.
Laine reveals the secret to the ideal tehina: The highest quality sesame paste mixed with ice water and just a touch of lemon juice. We wiped the plate clean with the help of a basket of barely toasted garlic bread with a multi-grain crust.
Next came chili con carne - quite simply, the best I have ever tasted in Israel. Once again, Laine explains the basics, which comes down to using the finest ingredients, starting with round rib-eye steak, seasoned with care and cooked with onion, garlic, carrots and white beans. The end result is garnished with cilantro and served with toast points. It is hard to imagine a better dish to eat on a chilly winter’s eve.
In essence, the chili reflects the secret to the restaurant’s success: choice cuts of meat are used even in dishes where the kitchen might be able to get away with less expensive alternatives. This is true also in one of the most popular Red Heifer appetizers: the spring rolls - starring, naturally, chopped rib-eye.
To avoid filling up on appetizers, you can’t go wrong with the beet carpaccio: Wafer-thin slices of red beet drizzled with a pomegranate balsamic vinaigrette, some pure tehina, and a few grains of coarse salt. The best compliment came from my dining companion, who claimed he did not like beets, but reached for a second helping without realizing what he was eating.
As hard as it is not to order steak at the Red Heifer, the winter menu offers up some very tempting alternatives. One is the slow-braised pulled beef - brisket braised for 12 hours and marinated in a Texas-style BBQ sauce, which imparts a flavor of tantalizing richness to the succulent beef.
Another is the short ribs, braised in a subtle chipotle sauce whose heat does not overpower the tender meat but rather imbues it -- and the bed of mashed potatoes on which it sits - with lip-smacking goodness.
Even steak gets additional representation in the winter menu, in the form of what the chef terms "reserve cut" - lean and juicy slices of prime beef accented with an exquisite pomegranate reduction.
Of course, all the classic steaks are available as usual, complete with helpful menu guide to grilling definitions. The knowledgeable wait staff can also advise when it comes to deciding on preferences.
The wine list is totally Israeli, each bottle certified with Rav Rubin’s private seal of strictest kashrut. In accordance with this standard, only one wine has been designated as the house red to be served by the glass (one that is m’vushal): A very pleasant Cabernet-Merlot blend from Carmel’s Chateau Rouge label. But there is a more than adequate selection available by the bottle, including some superb vintages - priced accordingly - from Yatir.
Desserts feature the classic favorites, from which we indulged in the chocolate fudge cake and the lemon meringue pie. The former is truly in the ultra-rich, death-by-chocolate tradition, while the latter is a feast for the eyes as well as the palate - although diners more familiar with the American version are likely to find this European-style lemon tart quite different.
The guesswork is taken out of tipping here, as a 15% gratuity is added to the bill (welcomingly better than the 18% that is often tacked on when the restaurant takes this initiative).
The Red Heifer
Kosher - Mehadrin
26 King David Street, Jerusalem
Tel. (02) 624-0504
