Chef David Frenkel. Approximating perfection
Photo: Tzvika Tishler
Tel Aviv's best Italian restaurant?
With impeccable service and an attention to detail which extends to the kitchen, Pronto owner Rafi Adar and Chef David Frenkel serve full houses even on traditionally 'slow' midweek days.
After business hours, the office tower plaza behind the corner of Herzl and Ahad Ha’am Streets can seem a bleak and foreboding place. But once the dinner hour starts, the Pronto restaurant comes to life, serving full houses even on traditionally "slow" midweek days.
The service is impeccable, and exacting to the smallest detail: All plates and cutlery were changed after each course, and even the packaging of the individual towelettes was torn open for hassle-free access.
Judging from the mix of languages one overhears, the clientele is international; and judging from the professionalism of the wait staff, who are proficient in English, it is apparent that they are used to catering to customers with high standards.
Cheers!
Buzzy Gordon
The underground cavern at the former German Templer colony of Sarona has been reborn as Jajo, an establishment that celebrates not only fine wine but also a talented chef's innovative cuisine.
The attention to detail clearly extends to the kitchen. There are two separate bilingual menus: Classic and autumn (served nightly from 18.30). The seasonal rotation guarantees that the food will always feature fresh ingredients, and the dishes will continue to be innovative.
Pronto. Gastronomic experiences at this level do not come cheap (Photo: Gal Deren)
Innovation is also evident in the list of specialty cocktails. We ordered an Amaro Italiano - Amaro Montenegro, Fernet Branca, lemon, orange and tonic - and a Mojito Bianco - Vermouth Bianco and Grappa mixed with lemon, mint and soda. The former tasted surprisingly like a cool glass of Indian masala chai, while the latter - not surprisingly - like a refreshing "limonana" with a kick.
As we sipped our drinks, a basket of the house breads arrived: A warm focaccia, garnished large sprigs of fresh rosemary; crispy, authentically Italian breadsticks, with none of the usual frills (like sesame seeds) seen in commercial versions; and slices of a rustic whole-grain loaf and brown raisin bread. All the breads are baked on the premise, and they come with two condiments: Arugula aioli, and cold roasted green chili peppers, for heat.
There is also an empty saucer in which to mix together your own blend of olive oil and balsamic vinegar from bottles on the table; it is a welcome change from most restaurants to be able combine the two ingredients in the proportion you prefer.
The creamy aioli was delicious spread on the focaccia and the crusty multi-grain bread. The raisin bread, however, called out for butter, which the waiter gladly brought on request. It was definitely European butter, of the highest quality (like the olives oil and he balsamic vinegar), and the ideal choice for the dark bread.
Our appetizer was the Gillardeau oysters, imported from Normandy. The sight of the two large shells perched regally on a gleaming bed of shaved ice was another indication that Pronto goes to great pains to source the best and freshest ingredients - just like the granita of green apple and white horseradish topping the flesh of the oyster symbolizes the restaurant’s creativity and ability to elevate the plainest, simplest foods.
Accented by the tart-bitter granita, the oysters were devoured and disappeared all too quickly.
Our second appetizer was an Italian classic: Vitello tonnato - veal carpaccio with a tuna cream and fresh caper berries. The capers were the largest I have ever seen; split in half, they resembled bisected miniature figs. It is as difficult to describe the taste of the fine slivers of veal dabbed with the subtle fish cream as it is to imagine any other restaurant preparing this dish as well as Pronto does.
Our first pasta course was the Gorgonzola agnolotti, on a cream of root vegetables and pistachio oil. The smooth, rich flavor of the unique blue cheese burst through the thin membranes of the small pillows of pasta, and then was muted and enhanced (but not subdued) by the vegetable confit. The sprinkling of sumac added as much to the presentation as to the flavor of this extraordinary dish.
We switched to the fall menu for the second pasta dish: blue crab cannelloni with bisque foam and egg poached to 63 degrees. This exquisite dish bears all the trademarks of the precision of molecular cuisine, as the mention of the temperature of the egg suggests. The blue crab meat was in both the frothy bisque and - together with a blend of ricotta, Parmesan and goat cheeses - in the cannelloni filling; each forkful of the pasta blintz, decorated with a smear of tomato, needed only the lightest touch of bisque and cooked egg to complete the harmony of this inspired trio.
The pasta dishes were washed down most pleasantly by a glass of the owner’s favorite wine, Fonterutoli Chianti Classico.
Our main course was the baked grouper, moist and flavorful under a crumble of nuts, lemon peel and coffee. In a deviation from the printed menu, the fish was served on a bed of gnocchi on beetroot cream, with baby fennel. I am generally wary of gnocchi in this country, which I have often found to be starchy; but these pearls of potato pasta in a beurre blanc sauce with coarsely ground black pepper were fluffy and airy: quite simply, the best I have ever had outside of Italy.
At the risk of repeating myself, I have to pay the exact same compliment to the tiramisu, which virtually floated onto the tongue, where it dissipated slowly, allowing the flavors of the espresso, cocoa and mascarpone cream to meld and seep gently onto the palate.
The excellence of the tiramisu notwithstanding, the dessert that stole the show in the dessert category was another debut: Gianduja (chocolate-hazelnut) mousse on granules of cocoa with Atlantic salt, paired with ice cream the flavor of Malka beer atop a malt crumble. Indescribable.
Of course, gastronomic experiences at this level do not come cheap; for most people, an evening visit to Pronto should be considered an occasion to splurge. The good news, though, is that an affordable business lunch is served weekdays until 4 pm. And for those inclined to invest in fine dining, the restaurant’s loyalty club will reward you with a free business lunch after you have purchased six.
Pronto
Not kosher.
Herzl St. 4, Tel Aviv
Tel. (03) 566-0915
