In the past two weeks, the American retail chain Target at the center of an anti-LGBTQ maelstrom following the launch of its Pride collection lie every year over the last decade.
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The colorful Pride flags confronted a dark reality from conservative right-wing groups who opposed the chain’s open discourse. The groups publicly called for a boycott of Target stores, protested outside its branches, vandalized products and even attacked employees. As a result, the Pride collection was moved to the back of the stores. Back to the closet.
In an article published last week in the New York Times, a case was described of a woman who uploaded a video to TikTok from a Target store expressing her anger over a greeting card that read "Glad you made it out of the closet" and a yellow overall with the words “Bien Proud!” printed on it. "If that's not reason enough to boycott Target, I don't know what is," she said.
One of the items that angered the opposition was a one-piece swimsuit with additional fabric in the groin area, which could hide male genitalia. Online critics argued that this swimsuit was sold to children, while Target responded that it was only sold in adult sizes.
Meanwhile, on Wednesday, more than 100 LGBTQ and human rights organizations in the United States published a letter of solidarity, emphasizing that Target is expected to provide necessary security measures for its staff, while supporting the LGBTQ community and condemning extremist voices.
“Research shows that if a brand publicly supports and demonstrates a commitment to expanding and protecting LGBTQ+ rights, Americans are 2x more likely to buy or use the brand. Americans ages 18-34 are 5.5x more likely to want to work at a company if it publicly supports and demonstrates a commitment to expanding and protecting LGBTQ+ rights,” the statement read.
“It isn’t just LGBTQ+ consumers and communities: 70% of non-LGBTQ+ people believe companies should publicly support and include the LGBTQ+ community through practices like hiring, advertising and sponsorships”
What's the situation in Israel?
Target’s case is not the first time that fashion brands and commercial companies in general who appeal to the LGBTQ+ community faced backlash. Some fold, while others do not want to bend to anti-LGBTQ+ attacks.
When we began to investigate the subject last week and approached fashion brands with the question of whether they are launching Pride collections this year, positive answers were hard to come by. Gradually, a few sparse collections began to emerge whose designs didn't seem to have received much thought, alongside campaigns featuring local LGBTQ+ community members.
While international brands like Adidas, COS, CK by Calvin Klein, DKNY, Diesel, and Levi's are launching dedicated Pride collections in Israel and directing their profits to international LGBTQ+ organizations (for example, CK supports ILGA World and Transgender Law Center to empower transgender youth, and in Israel, donations from Factor 54 importers are directed toward the Maavarim association that empowers the transgender community through knowledge and resources; COS donates 100% of profits to LGBTQ+ charities) - Israeli fashion companies, for the most part, focus solely on business.
Some of them launched their collections in a social media campaign, some make do with the perfunctory rainbow-colored t-shirts, and others are still considering whether to participate in Pride month.
Let's be honest: nobody is waiting in line to buy items from Pride collections, not even members of the LGBTQ+ community. It is a business move by brands to boost sales and raise their physical and metaphorical flags in front of their young customers, including millennials and Generation Z, who have an open-minded and inclusive mentality.
It's also a way for consumers from the community to mark and decide where to invest their "pink shekel" and reward brands that fight for equal representation. It's a win-win situation for both sides.
Meanwhile, Pride collections have a much more important goal: representing the LGBTQ+ community publicly. It's easy and obvious in these days when the discourse seeks to create the equation “only mom and dad = family.”
One of the successful campaigns is by Hamashbir, Israel’s biggest department store chain, which photographed three couples from the community under the slogan “Love is Everywhere.” Among those featured in the photo were fashion designer Jennifer Kim and her partner, and Amalia Rosenberg, daughter of musician Pablo Rosenberg, with her girlfriend.
The campaign, which was posted on Hamashbir’s social networks, is expected to also be aired on TV - making it even more significant, especially coming from a company that is perceived as conservative and targets families.
Another social campaign produced by Castro features four couples from the LGBTQ+ community, after launching a special cap that was given for free during the Pride Parade in Tel Aviv last year.
Renuar hasn’t designed anything for pride events in several years now, but at least its hired singer Ran Danker, who’s openly gay, as its brand ambassador.
The Terminal X fashion website features opinion leaders such as model Aliya Hoff and drag queen HystErica, while this year - Nada. When asked why, they declined to comment."
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Hamashbir Pride collection, 2023; Amalia Rosenberg and her girlfriend
(Photo: Meir Cohen)
There were also those who launched purpose-built collections, but it seems mainly for profit. Fox photographed all four of its presenters - Maya Wertheimer, Or Schweitzer, Dana Frieder, and Ofer Hayun - none of whom are part of the LGBTQ+ community, in collection items such as shirts, bodysuits, a visor hat, and a fabric backpack with the slogan “Be You.”
The profits from the collection will not be donated to any LGBTQ+ organization, which raises the question: why, then, launch a Pride collection with zero representation and zero contribution?
Foot Locker, the international shoe chain (also owned by the Fox Group), which sponsored Pride events last year, launched a minor collaboration this year: a limited-edition collection of 30 pairs of sneakers illustrated by the artist Tzukit, with different designs inspired by the Pride flag. The price is NIS 900 and it's yours. It's unclear what these sneakers have to do with real Pride.
Leading up to Pride Month 2023, the Israeli fashion industry, which seemingly presents itself as a liberal and open-minded industry that employs many members of the LGBTQ+ community - from designers and brand owners to warehouse workers - appears to be using the month to reinforce values of openness and acceptance.
This is not the first year in which Israeli fashion brands have flirted with the LGBTQ+ community, but instead of taking the connection one step forward and developing representation and value reinforcement for the sake of creating a holistic appearance, they are taking a step backward.
What are the reasons for the lack of representation and availability in Pride collections? It depends on who you ask. The main reason given to us “off record” by several players in the industry, is that Israeli fashion companies don't have the budget for Pride collections, so some of them chose not to design or produce collections this year or only went for small campaigns.
Off the record, a senior member of the fashion industry says that "Israeli brands are distancing themselves from Pride collections because they are afraid of public opinion."
Perhaps in times where negative attitudes prevail, and anti-LGBTQ discourse takes place on social media and around the government table, no one wants to see far-right parties and their supporters protesting outside their doors.
'We no longer only cater to a female audience'
One of the Israeli fashion companies that operates holistically throughout the year is the underwear clothing chain fix, which naturally features characters from the entire gender spectrum, including in a fashion show held during the recent fashion week and featuring one of the brand's ambassadors, content creator Eden Daniel Gabay, who walked the runway both as a man and in women's clothing.
Throughout Pride Week, the brand will accompany Gabay, who will also appear in a "day in the life" style video and even sponsor the One Night Only party. In addition, the brand will hold special photoshoots for the Pride collection, featuring Noam Yitav and his partner Avi Raz Cohen.
In a conversation with Liat Levi, the marketing manager of fix, she points out an interesting point: the small Pride collection launched by the chain is not a specifically-targeted collection but rather part of the regular collection.
"In the past year, we changed our direction. We no longer only cater to a female audience, but to a non-defined audience. Today, a customer can enter the store and choose whether they are male, female, both, or choose not to decide," she says.
"From our perspective, the collection is not intended solely for Pride or specifically for Pride Month. It's not a gimmick - it's the regular clothing we have in the store."
How do customers react to this shift?
The loyal customers of fix buy what they know and like, and I don't know if they relate to it or not. But we've also added a new audience that our agenda speaks to and wants to take part in. We see a lot of Gen Z customers for whom our language is part of their everyday lives."
You are among the few brands that both give representation and produce items in honor of Pride Month. Were there any second thoughts about putting it out in today's sociopolitical climate and anti-LGBTQ+ rhetoric?
"I admit it wasn't even a consideration and we didn't have a dilemma. I think at the end of the day, the consumer is looking for authenticity, a value that we also see in working with influencers. If you don't talk about Pride all year round and only release a collection during Pride Month - it looks fake. This is what is required and requested of us as a result of the changes we have made. If we don't stand for it, then who will?"
The question of representation and giving back to the community is critical. Alongside those who understand the importance of these two things are those who are still primarily seeking to make money off the community. For example, the generic slogan “Your True Colors” on Pride-colored tees by Hoodies or the "collection" that includes a fan, a tee and bracelets by Adika.
In both cases, the collections were not modeled by representatives from the LGBTQ+ community, and all the revenues go to the brand's pockets and not to charity. So, in addition to the lack of design value, it's tough to find true solidarity here.
‘No doubt for a second if to launch Pride campaign’
The example of Adidas Israel is an important lesson in marketing, courage, and community integration. Adidas is the only fashion and sports brand that maintains a positive relationship with the LGBTQ+ community throughout the whole year, every year.
Not just through the launch of dedicated collections but also by strengthening and promoting the community with activities and contributions like the partnership with Marsha College offering professional courses to community members in a variety of fields. The courses range from accounting management to nail building to fitness coaching courses, made possible by Adidas.
The brand’s Pride campaign features three leading public opinion figures - transgender model and actress, Talleen Abu Hanna, who also represents the Arab community; young actress Bar Mineli, representing Generation Z; and Maccabi Petah Tikva goalkeeper Dani Amos who works toward promoting LGBTQ+ rights in soccer.
The three dressed up in a Pride collection designed by South African designer Rich Mnisi, who used unique graphic language and colorful prints. They also wrote a public letter to the boy or girl they used to be.
Tomer Cohen, the marketing director of Adidas, says to Ynet, "The collection is a platform for conveying a message. Mnisi had a strong urge to talk about his inner child, despite all the difficulties he has faced. That's why we chose three local opinion leaders who we thought had the right mix to tell a personal story.
There was no doubt for a second whether to launch a Pride campaign. It's the campaign that I enjoy the most this year because it's unique to Israel and stands out in the Middle East. We are happy and proud to promote these values and shout for pride."
Bar Mineli writes, "I am proud to break free from definitions that don't serve me, to enjoy my truth and live life full of happiness and love." Talleen Abu Hanna adds, "Being who you are is more than just a dream. Take the dream and turn it into a reality."
However, the most important words come from Amos: "When my teammates came out of the closet in front of me, I supported them. When they received homophobic slurs during a match, I decided not to ignore it. It's important for me to bring change in soccer fields and sports in general, because sports come from love, and love is not dependent on anything. There is a place for everyone in sports!"
Among the three, it's worth taking a closer look at Amos' story, whose brother, dancer Michael Amos, is a member of the community.
Dani Amos took it upon himself to fight homophobia in Israel's soccer fields and even goes onto the field with a pride flag on his arm. "He made a brave decision to lead the issue in Israel and he is willing to pay the price," praises Cohen. "He faces a lot on the fields, and it was important for us to give recognition and appreciation to his story. It takes courage to do that."
The connection between pride and sports is not a trivial matter. Last year, Adidas filmed an important campaign for Pride Month with the participation of community athletes. The photoshoot with Amos is a continuation of that. And it's not coincidental.
The goal is to show that sports is a safe place to express yourself," says Cohen. "As marketing director, it's easiest for me to sponsor a party for Ofer Nissim or a float in a parade - but that's not what we want as a society. We want to promote values of inclusivity, and since we are a strong brand, we use our power to convey messages we believe in. We chose people from a wide range in the community, so that everyone can relate to the story."