During the opening night of Israel's local fashion week in March of last year, fashion designer Hagar Alembik was recognized with a lifetime achievement award, bestowed upon her by First Lady Michal Herzog. This occurred amid tumultuous times following a major legal shake-up, the repercussions of which were felt even on the opening night's runway.
"Hagar Alembik is this year's recipient of the Lifetime Achievement Award, and rightly so," Herzog declared, "due to her 35 years of creative work and significant contributions, not only influencing the Israeli fashion scene but also as a prominent fashion exporter."
Since then, our lives have dramatically changed. Fashion week is unlikely to take place in the near future, if at all, and Israeli fashion brands, which once led international fashion exports, are now being met with indifference from their global counterparts. Alembika, the company Alembik co-founded in 2005 with her partner, Judith Fadlon, is one of Israel's largest exporters to Europe and the United States. However, with the shift in global public opinion, Alembik now faces her own set of challenges.
"We are only just beginning to receive orders for the upcoming winter collection, and will soon see if there has been a change," Alembik explains. "After October 7, all our international partners reached out to us, encouraging us to 'be strong and courageous.'"
"But a month ago, I received a phone call from a distributor in Ireland. They asked for an update on the clothing, because they could no longer stock merchandise labeled 'Made in Israel'. I don't believe this came from a high-level directive. Their justification was the inability to stock Israeli products in Ireland due to numerous pro-Palestinian protests. We are fully associated with Israeli designs, and this is neither concealed nor hidden from view."
Even if she had wanted to hide it, Alembik's designs are a reflection of her native landscape. Since graduating from the fashion department at Shenkar College of Engineering, Design and Art in the late 80s, Alembik is one of Israel's prominent fashion designers, who articulates the local style in her designs: a combination of soft, flowing fabrics that provide comfort and are suitable for the climate, along with eclectic mixes of fabrics, textures and colors reminiscent of Israeli streets. We sat down with her to talk about her new Spring-Summer 2024 collection.
Where can we find you now?
"Where else would I go? Work is therapy for me. I am at the Alembika studio in Tel Aviv."
What can customers expect to find in the new collection?
"There are two main lines: the Alembika collection and the Urban collection. Urban is a young, urban and everyday line, with 100% cotton items featuring polka dots and stripes on dresses and pants with balloon cuts and volume play. I've learned that my customers really love this, and I've been doing it for several years now. Alongside it is the main line, Alembika, with items suitable for the evening. Bottom line, it's the same hand."
How important is it to you that the collection aligns with seasonal trends?
"Honestly, I don't even know how to answer that. I'm influenced by everything around me, but if you ask me what the trend is this year, I wouldn't know what to say. There's no longer what was once called In and Out. The trends that were don't disappear, more and more trends are constantly being added to them."
How did the war influence your Spring-Summer 2024 collection?
"The collection was designed a year ago, so the war had no effect. That said, I'm currently working on the Spring-Summer 2025 collection and it's hanging in the studio, and I can already see that there's a lot of black. There are also colors, but the black stands out."
Were there any last-minute adjustments to the collection due to the war?
"No."
Name a key item in the collection.
"Dresses are always a milestone in my work."
Everyone is now calling to buy blue-and-white (Israeli made). Which Israeli designers or brands do you particularly love?
"I feel that people are committed to blue-and-white in all fields today. I really appreciate the work of Ronen Chen and Sasson Kedem, and in general I appreciate any designer who creates and works today, does not give up and continues."