Aside from the human tragedies, the protracted war on multiple fronts continues to impact the country’s culinary scene adversely. In our roundup of resilient restaurants of 2023, we already mourned the loss of a great many establishments, including some of the most highly regarded restaurants and eateries in Tel Aviv and Jerusalem – and, unfortunately, the list only grows longer.
Hardest hit, of course, have been the restaurants of Haifa, whose residents have been forced to stay home and close to shelter as rocket attacks from Lebanon continue unabated. This phenomenon has inevitably extended to the rural restaurants of the Galilee and the Golan Heights, where Ein Zivan’s acclaimed Mattarello Café (reviewed here previously on these pages) succumbed. Others, like Adelina, have remained open while curtailing their menu offerings.
In Tel Aviv, we note the stunning closure of the invariably crowded Santa Katarina, helmed by Chef Tomer Agay, as well as the equally popular Jaffa nightspot Onza (both places have hinted that these developments may be temporary, so hopefully this will be the case). Similarly, Chef Hillel Tavakoli’s fantastic restaurant Animar is currently closed, although his other restaurant – the kosher Darya, at the Tel Aviv Hilton – thankfully remains open. In the suburbs, Gordos in Holon, famous for its outrageous hamburgers, has also been shuttered.
In Jerusalem, meanwhile, two long-time favorites – Shanty and Pepito’s – are now gone, while television's Master Chef winner Avi Levy closed his street food eatery, Mitzle (although his main restaurant, Hamotzi, remains open). Not far away, in the Jerusalem Corridor, the Jewish-Arab co-owned restaurant Majda – which had come to symbolize co-existence – could not overcome the polarization that followed October 7, reflecting a pessimistic and depressing turn of events.
On the other hand, on a positive note, there are quite a few restaurants that are somehow managing to survive, while a brave few have even opened their doors – and kitchens – for the first time. There has even been a resurgence of fine dining restaurants, with star chefs Moshik Roth and Barak Aharoni leading the way. (In the other direction, two of Israel’s top chefs are leaving their equally upscale restaurants: David Frenkel of Pronto is headed for quieter shores in Ibiza, while George and John is losing Chef Tomer Tal, who brought the restaurant to international prominence as the highest-ranked Israeli restaurant in the region’s Best 50 list.)
Wineries, too, are a category worthy of mention. While the dozens of wineries in the North whose visitors’ centers have been empty because of the dearth of domestic tourism, Pauker Winery of Kibbutz Nir Oz on the Gaza border, which was destroyed by Hamas, sprang back to life and launched a new vintage. Similarly, the pioneering Ramat Negev Winery in Kadesh Barnea is also poised to shift the public’s attention to an emerging wine-growing region in the southern desert, especially after its award-winning wines reached unprecedented heights in domestic and international competitions.
The list below highlights noteworthy restaurants and bars that are either new or have reinvented themselves to meet the current challenges. They are all deserving of public support, as they fight to stay alive in a struggling economy and a society still in the throes of the upheavals of displacement and burdensome military reserve service. In addition to serving delicious food, all the restaurants in the following list have bilingual menus and staff that speak English. As always, there is at least one restaurant that is certified kosher, and the entries are not ranked; rather, they appear in alphabetical order.
Of course, the list is far from exhaustive – so stay tuned in a few months for a roundup of our picks of resilient restaurants of 2024.
Bushwick/LP: The Imperial Group – Chef Einav Azguri
About: The Imperial Group, which built its reputation on the art of mixology, recruited talented Chef Einav Azguri – formerly of Cerveceria and Bar a Vin – to upgrade the food menus in its chain of bars known for their creative cocktails. Azguri went even further and put his personal stamp on the ambiance of the flagship bar in the Imperial Hotel, renaming it LP and introducing a classic rock soundtrack. LP is an intimate, dimly lit indoor space, with seating at the bar and low and high tables. Poor acoustics amplify the noise of neighboring conversation at the expense of the soundtrack. The a/c was cranked high even on a cool fall evening.
Bushwick has both indoor and al fresco seating, the former mostly at a long bar (with a few small tables) and the latter in a spacious and mostly enclosed rear patio. A rhythmic soundtrack may be heard outdoors, while colored lights in both areas lend an informal and playful atmosphere.
Drinks. Both bars feature numerous specialty cocktails, for which Imperial is famous: LP lists nine such cocktails, and Bushwick 10, but knowledgeable waiters can also guide you to more from the fully stocked bar. Both places feature reasonably priced wine by the glass, with a bit more choice at Bushwick. The only beer available at both places in San Miguel in bottles.
Menu: The food menu at LP comprises four sections: Sea, Plant-based (although one is dairy), Meat and Sweet. As befits bar food meant to accompany alcohol, the plates are on the small side, with a tendency toward grilled bites on skewers. Bushwick’s one-page menu is divided into only two sections – Food and Sweet – and the portions tend to be a bit more substantial.
Recommended: [Bushwick] Hurricane Bushwick (cocktail); challah and miso butter; corn ribs with crab bisque, crispy tofu PB&J, smash burger; Basque cheesecake (dessert). [LP] Paloma (cocktail); garlic butter flatbread; octopus and tomato skewer in yogurt-mint sauce, veal sweetbreads, picanha roast beef; crepe suzette kanafeh (dessert).
For the best value, come to either place for Happy Hour, weekdays between 18.00-20.00.
Bushwick @ The Fabric Hotel, 28 Nahalat Binyamin St., Tel Aviv. Tel. (03) 567-8006.
LP @ The Imperial Hotel, 66 HaYarkon St., Tel Aviv. Tel. (073) 264-9474.
Giardino
About: This fine dining restaurant was closed for several months at the start of the war, but managed to reopen, under Chef Bar Tzanger. The impressive dining area is largely al fresco, in a spacious, stone-walled courtyard off the lobby of the impressive hotel. The outdoor tables are covered with white tablecloths; the wooden chairs are very hard, but cushions are available on request. There is more casual (upholstered) indoor seating in the bar area. The subdued soundtrack features French chansons, and the ambiance in general borders on the romantic.
Drinks: There are four specialty cocktails, with all the classics also available from the fully stocked bar. The international wine list is fittingly extensive, with a full page of wines by the glass, and even exclusive vintages whose bottles sell for four figures. There are imported, domestic and craft beers on tap and in bottles.
Menu: The one-page food menu (separate in Hebrew and English) reflects “port-to-table” cuisine that might also be described as “classic French meets Mediterranean.” The menu’s four sections are titled Appetizers, Starters, Intermediate and Main. There is a separate dessert menu curated by a new, dedicated pastry chef.
Recommended: Gin and mango (cocktail); house rolls with burnt eggplant dip; tuna tartare with Israeli caviar; kubaniye in mangold leaves; crystal shrimp in coriander cream; beef filet; pineapple four ways, goat cheesecake (desserts)
Giardino @ The Jaffa Hotel. Not kosher. 2 Louis Pasteur St., Jaffa. Tel. (03) 504-2000.
Hagai Aviram Pop Ups
About: Hagai Aviram, a chef who serves private dinners in his courtyard in southern Tel Aviv, decided in 5784 to venture out of his comfort zone and host pop-up dinners approximately once a month. Aviram partners with local restaurants in his neighborhood and spreads the word, inter alia, via announcements on his Facebook page.
Drinks: The separate beverages menu is in Hebrew only, in spite of the English title. But it is not extensive – three specialty cocktails; two vintages each of red, white and rose wine, all available by the glass and the bottle; and one brand of beer: bottled San Miguel. (Note: It is possible the selection could vary by venue.)
Menu: The one-page food menu is updated for each dinner. In general, it comprises five sections: Homemade breads, Starters, Intermediate dishes (untitled), Main Courses, and Sweets. There are ample vegetarian and gluten-free options, but few vegan ones. Portions are on the small side, even when it comes to the main courses.
Recommended: Apple gin (cocktail); house focaccia and sourdough; roasted artichoke polenta with manchego truffle cheese, beetroot on beetroot cream with fig balsamic and sheep cheese; smoked picanha with aioli; shrimp pappardelle pasta; Tuscan nights (an original dessert)
Hagai Aviram. Not kosher. Tel. (054) 638-0498.
Melody
About: Melody cocktail bar, which opened only a few months ago in a suburban low-rise mall just east of Netanya, has already become quite popular. There is al fresco seating along a patio lined with shrubbery, and a handsome, colorful inside area with bar seating and large booths. There is comfortable leather upholstery throughout, and a pleasant rock music soundtrack.
Drinks: There are no fewer than 11 specialty cocktails, some served in quirky glasses. The international wine list is somewhat limited, but all vintages are available by the glass. The bar dispenses three brands of draft beer.
Menu: The one-page food menu is not divided into sections, but the categories roughly break down into starters, salads, intermediate dishes, pasta and main courses. There are adequate vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. Four desserts are listed, with two larger ones meant for sharing.
Recommended: Brain Freeze (cocktail); brioche loaf; cauliflower tabbouleh, tuna tartare bruschetta, polenta fingers; cloud gnocchi; crème brûlée with white chocolate (dessert)
Melody @ Drorim Mall. Not kosher. 1 Gilboa St., Bney Dror. Tel. (09) 966-3132
Pardes
About: Pardes is the fine dining restaurant in the brand-new luxury compound anchored by The George boutique hotel and private members club. The decor is elegant and imposing, yet still full of intimate corners, making the venue suitable for many occasions, whether a first date or a family celebration. Comfortable chairs are positioned around tables in various configurations, all covered with white tablecloths. A pleasant soundtrack plays at a non-intrusive decibel level.
Drinks: There are five signature cocktails, and the fully stocked bar will mix any of the classics. As to be expected, there is a very extensive International wine list, although with limited selection available by the glass; the two excellent Pardes private label wines are also the most reasonably priced (for a splurge, you can find bottles going for well into four figures). There is Israeli craft beer on tap, with additional brews to be introduced.
Menu: Presiding over the kitchen is acclaimed Chef Barak Aharoni, whose previous restaurant was reviewed by this writer on these pages some time ago. The dinner menu, updated daily, comprises no fewer than seven unusually titled sections: Mezze, Raw (fish and beef), Vegetables (including salads), Into Deep Oil, Boiling Water (pasta), Grill and Limited Edition – the equivalent of quotidian specials. There are ample vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. Finally, there are no fewer than eight desserts listed on a separate menu, prepared by a dedicated pastry chef.
Recommended: Celery gimlet (cocktail); house bread basket; black lentils with turmeric and yogurt; tuna-niye; baby barracuda (deep fried); garganelli (hand-rolled pasta); lamb chops; stuffed Swiss chard; pear galette (dessert); honey spritz (dessert cocktail).
Pardes @ The George. Not kosher. 5 Israel Tal St., Tel Aviv. Tel. (077) 570-5919
Plaza Café
About: The latest member of the restaurant group that includes Rova (see below) and Norder (reviewed previously on these pages here), Plaza Café opened at the end of 2023, right on Dizengoff Circle. There is primarily outdoor seating, on rather hard wooden chairs, at low and high tables, with just a few seats indoors at the bar. An eclectic international soundtrack plays at innocuous levels.
Drinks: There are four specialty cocktails, plus an entire section of the beverage menu dedicated to spritzers. The international wine list is more than adequate, with most vintages available by the glass (and two in carafes). There is one brand of draft beer and two in bottles.
Menu: The combined lunch/dinner food menu (the restaurant also serves breakfast) comprises five sections: Entrées, Pizza, Salads, Small plates and main courses (implied). There are ample vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. The wait staff will explain the limited selection of desserts. There is a very attractive happy hour on food and drinks on weekdays between 17.00-19.00, plus a second round of discounts on cocktails most nights after 21.00.
Recommended. Piccadilly (cocktail); the house bread with dips; Lalik salad; corn cream with mushrooms, fish tartare; white sweet potato cappelletti, sautéed shrimp; bread pudding with ice cream, Basque cheesecake (desserts).
Plaza Café. Not kosher. 1-3 Dizengoff Circle, Tel Aviv. Tel. (073) 331-9415
Qumran
About: Even before Michelin-star chef Moshik Roth opened his own fine dining restaurant this fall, he was recruited last winter to upgrade Qumran’s menu, after the restaurant had closed to the public for two months at the start of the war in order to cook full-time for soldiers. To this day, the restaurant continues its laudable practice of feeding soldiers on Fridays.
The decor reflects a cave-like atmosphere inspired by the name (the area where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found), and early in the evening, the soundtrack plays Arabic music. One dining area is dominated by a very long spiral bar, while a second one is filled with high and low tables, most of which are designed to accommodate sizable parties. There is comfortable leather seating throughout. After 21.00, the kosher fine dining establishment mutates into a lively and crowded nightspot, with reveling patrons and provocatively dressed entertainers alike dancing on the tables to contemporary music spun by a DJ.
Drinks: There are six specialty cocktails, while the classics may also be ordered from the fully stocked bar. The international kosher wine list is carefully curated, although there is limited availability by the glass (the higher-end vintages can cost four figures). There are three brands of Israeli beer (including craft) in bottles.
Menu: The one-page menu is not divided into sections, but the two columns list dishes that progress from starter and intermediate size to main courses. Since it is a kosher meat restaurant, the vegetarian dishes are also vegan. For larger parties, the waiter in charge of “experiences” will create one of three degustation menus. A dedicated pastry chef creates five desserts.
Recommended: Lokum (cocktail); the house bread; fatayer; yellowtail ceviche; Jerusalem artichoke tortellini; beef filet with asparagus; prime rib; Cuban Qumran (dessert).
Qumran. Kosher. 21 Ha’Arba’a St., Tel Aviv. Tel. (03) 919-1555
Rehab wine bar
About: Rehab is the latest iteration of the jungly garden patio in the rear of Chef Rima Olvera’s intimate fine dining restaurant Oasis. Formerly the home of the late, lamented lunchtime Mexican eatery El Gato Azul, the recently transformed pleasant al fresco area is now a wine bar sharing its extensive list of international vintages with Oasis, which has always been known for its carefully curated wine cellar. Seating is at slightly ornate, round, white metal tables, with cushions on matching white metal chairs. A pleasant international instrumental and vocal soundtrack plays at an enjoyable volume.
Drinks: The full bar serves a few excellent twists on classic cocktails. The international wine list is professionally curated, with many vintages suitable for pairing with the gourmet cuisine, and an adequate selection available by the glass. Two imported brands of beer are available. There are happy hour 1+1 discounts on cocktails and wine, weekdays between 18.30-20.00.
Menu: Rehab has its own one-page menu of sharing plates designed to accompany wine, but one of the great perks of this casual wine bar is that you can also order from the main Oasis menu. There are ample vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. Leave room for one (or more) of the five desserts created by Chef Olvera, listed on a separate menu along with select digestifs.
Recommended: Shrimp cocktail in Bloody Mary; miso scallops; blue cheese and apple tempura endive salad; soft-shell crab tempura risotto; seasonal fruit carpaccio with sorbet, cheesecake with amarena cherries and almond tuile (desserts).
Rehab by Oasis. Not kosher. 17 Montefiore St., Tel Aviv. Tel. (03) 620-6022.
Rova wine and dine
About: Since being reviewed by us on these pages previously, this strategically located wine bar has grown even more popular, expanding not only its physical premises but also its culinary offerings, as reflected in the updated sobriquet Wine and Dine. There are now three outdoor seating areas on the sidewalk, plus two indoors (one along the bar). Seating is at high and low tables, some boasting couches. The soundtrack is loud and rhythmic.
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Drinks: There are six specialty cocktails mixed by the fully stocked bar, along with a more than adequate international wine list, with a sufficient number of vintages available also by the glass. There is also a good selection of domestic and imported draft and bottled beer.
Menu: Meals are served all day long, starting with breakfast (from 10.00-17.00), moving on to value lunches (weekdays 11.00-16.00), and culminating with dinner. The evening menu comprises four sections: Small plates, Salads, Boutique pizzas and Mains. There are ample vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options, and even a children’s menu. A separate dessert menu lists five choices. There are attractive happy hour discounts – 50% off drinks, and 20% off food – weekdays between 17.30-19.30.
Recommended: Cosmostyle (cocktail); house focaccia; baked cauliflower, artichoke and camembert bruschetta, shrimp skillet; quinoa salad; truffle ravioli; croissant bread pudding with vanilla ice cream (dessert).
Rova Wine and Dine. Not kosher. 192 Dizengoff St., Tel Aviv. Tel. (03) 913-6732.
- The writer was a guest of the restaurants. However, all opinions are his own