From a culinary perspective, the Old City of Jerusalem is primarily associated with hummus, bagels and tourist traps. However, a richer and more diverse gastronomic world bustles within its walls which can be explored thanks to a tour initiated by the Tower of David Museum (cost: 120 shekels per person).
Read more:
"Given the Old City's plethora of unique flavors and fascinating individuals, and its distinct cuisine compared to what you'll encounter in both Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, we decided to make it accessible to the broader audience visiting the Tower of David," says tour guide Hagit Tzikorel. Her enthusiastic talk about the dishes whets one's appetite. The culinary journey starts from the Tower of David, spans three hours and will comprise four to five stops, selected from a range of available options.
Ramzi Hamis's hummus restaurant in the market
There are several hummus shrines in the Old City of Jerusalem (such as Abu Shukri, Lina and Arafat). However, a carpet seller in one of the alleyways particularly recommended Abu Kamel's restaurant. And Tzikorel indeed concurs.
"I've tasted all the hummus varieties around, and Abu Kamel's hummus is simply perfect," she declares. "The ambiance is unique, and it offers the best service. Over the years, it's been frequented by celebrities and politicians."
Upon our arrival, we found the owner, Ramzi Hamis, in the small kitchen, diligently preparing the hummus. Ramzi learned the secret of its preparation from his late father, Kamel, whose picture graces the kitchen wall.
"I'm the third generation in this restaurant. My grandfather opened it in 1935. What do I put in the hummus? Parsley, garlic, lemon, cumin and hot pine nuts," reveals Ramzi, explaining the success of his hummus.
The menu also boasts delightful falafel, tasty kebabs, msabbaha, labneh, shawarma, schnitzel, beans and on Saturdays, maqluba. The price range varies from 25 shekels to 60 shekels.
Abu Kamel's, 30 Avtimus Market.
The Ja'far family’s knafeh
Long before knafeh became trendy in Tel Aviv, the Ja'far family was a dominant force in the field. In 1951, the family established Ja'far Sweets in the Christian Quarter, and many consider their knafeh to be the best in Jerusalem. The establishment has thrived for 70 years, and dessert enthusiasts continue to flock to the spacious venue.
The owner Adnan Ja'far is adamant about keeping the secret of their distinct cheese dessert. "We have a secret recipe. Anyone can make knafeh, but not like we do. It's a secret, so I won't reveal it. But I'll say that what's crucial is the quality of the cheese, which we source from Nablus."
The Ja'fars also offer other delectable sweets such as baklava, fried honey balls and more, which are best paired with Turkish coffee. The price of knafeh is 64 shekels per kilogram and 16 shekels per piece.
Ja'far Sweets, 42 Beit Habad.
Kebab on the blade at the Butchers' Market
"Legendary kebab joint," declares a fading newspaper clipping at Kebab Abu Shaheen in the Butchers' Market. On one of the walls hangs a kushan (an Ottoman property deed), attesting to the age of the establishment — claiming to be 300 years old, dating back to the Ottoman era. Kebab Abu Shaheen has long become an local symbol, drawing food enthusiasts and renowned chefs who visit on foot. It even earned the nickname "The Kebab in the Wall" due to the niche where the grill operates.
The jovial brothers, Mohammad and Razi Shaheen, descendants of a family from Turkey, run the place. They learned the art of meat slicing (using a half-meter-long ancient sword) and seasoning from their father and grandfather.
"What's special about our kebab? It's handcrafted, on the blade. We add pine nuts and almonds to it," they share. It's fascinating to watch the Shaheens slice, layer and skewer the meat until it transforms into the perfect kebab.
Their signature dish is the superb lamb kebab, grilled over charcoal, which pairs wonderfully with pickles and fresh salads. Don't expect fries or other extras here. They believe in pure kebab without any frills. The small restaurant's walls are adorned with photos of the owner's family history and the Old City. In the background, you can hear the chirping of the restaurant's pet canaries. A skewer's price is 20 shekels.
Kebab Abu Shaheen, 76 Butchers' Market.
Apricot chocolate by the New Gate
For many years, New Gate St. was neglected. The Jerusalem Development Authority recognized its potential, and after significant renovations that concluded a year and a half ago, it has become an entertainment hub. One of my favorite spots on this charming street is La Patisserie Abu-Sir, owned by Ibrahim Abu-Sir, a man of personal charm and wisdom.
Abu-Sir comes from a family of confectioners. He worked for 18 years as a pastry chef at the David Citadel Hotel in Jerusalem, underwent training abroad and amid the pandemic, decided to establish his own patisserie to showcase his skills.
Observing the display window filled with colorful, intricately designed and unique pastries, it's challenging to choose. Among the popular items are a light cheesecake, knafeh cheesecake, and a lemon tart ("people just snatch it up"). Don't miss out on the savory items (like quiches) and the chocolates, especially the dark chocolate with apricot.
La Patisserie Abu-Sir, 35 New Gate St.
Bagel with za'atar by the Church of the Redeemer
After an extensive career as a chef in hotels and restaurants, Sha'wish Mohammad Ramadan decided to take things a bit slower. Today, he operates a cart near the Church of the Redeemer, where he offers baked goods (such as date and saffron pastries) from local bakeries, hearty falafels (some stuffed with onions) and unique nougat treats.
The highlight, however, is the bagel (in Arabic: ka'ak) sold with za'atar. "Our bagel is baked in an olive wood oven, giving it a unique flavor that's entirely different from other bagels," explains Sha'wish.
"They used to sell round bagels, but the bakery we purchase from now shapes them elongated." The price of the bagel ranges between 7 to 10 shekels. Occasionally, tour participants get a chance to taste the za'atar bagel sold at Jaffa Gate.
The Bagel Cart, Moristan 5.
Strudel and schnitzel at the Austrian Hospice
If Jesus were alive and walking the Via Dolorosa on his way to crucifixion today, he might have taken a break from the burdensome task of carrying the cross and stopped at the Austrian Hospice, situated between the third and fourth stations of the Stations of the Cross, to indulge in the renowned apple strudel of the guesthouse.
"Some people find the name Austrian Hospice a bit confusing and even intimidating," laughs Lukas Mayer, the manager of the establishment. "But it stems from the term 'hospitality' – a place for welcoming guests. The building opened in 1864 for pilgrims from the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Even Emperor Franz Joseph visited, and his portrait graces our café. In recent years, Christoph Waltz, star of Inglourious Basterds, stayed with us."
The café boasts a charming interior and a delightful garden. The menu succeeds in bringing a Viennese flair to the Levant - high-quality schnitzel (which, for cost-saving reasons, is made from chicken) paired with potato salad, spaetzle, goulash soup and of course, coffee in the style of Vienna accompanied by recommended traditional cakes: apple strudel, Sachertorte, Kugelhopf and Tres Leches cake. Cake prices: 24 shekels.
Main dishes range between 29-65 shekels. If you visit, don't miss the opportunity to go to the rooftop to enjoy a stunning view of Jerusalem, including the domes of the mosques on the Temple Mount.
The Austrian Hospice, Via Dolorosa 37.
Apple cake and fine espresso at the Emanuel Complex
Many tourists passing by the Emanuel Complex, located near the Tower of David, are unaware of the magic it holds. Among other things, it houses a delightful café that serves excellent pastries (don't miss the apple cake and carrot cake), all homemade, as well as pizzas, quiches, soups, sandwiches and salads. In the winter, it's recommended to warm up with their meat stew. Guests can sit in the cozy space adorned with Armenian ceramics and photographs documenting Jerusalem in past centuries or in the blossoming quaint garden.
The complex is operated by Messianic Jews, and at its center stands Christ's Church. "It was consecrated in 1849 by a private organization within the Anglican Church with a vision of the return to Zion," shares Eyal Friedman, one of the guides of the Emanuel Heritage Center.
"It is the first Protestant church in the Middle East. Even the British consul, pilgrims, and other visitors lodged and dined here. Prince Alfred, son of Queen Victoria, even visited. Today, the complex includes a guesthouse and a museum, and it hosts cultural events."
It's worth peeking into and discovering the enchanting prayer garden. Prices are very reasonable – a generous slice of cake costs only 12 shekels. The most expensive dish on the menu (a quiche served with salad) is 44 shekels.
Emanuel Complex, Armenian Patriarchate 55.
Where to eat in the Jewish Quarter?
Alongside cafes and fast-food joints, there are also several kosher restaurants operating in the Jewish Quarter of the Old City:
Seoul House (Chabad 34): This is a meat-free and gluten-free restaurant, which has the distinction of being the "only kosher Korean restaurant in the world."
The ambiance reflects the Far East with heated futons for seating. The establishment was opened by Tzipporah Ruthenkoff, a Korean woman who moved to Israel with her ultra-Orthodox Jewish husband 28 years ago. Recently, she decided to introduce authentic Korean cuisine to the Holy City, ensuring its kosher accessibility.
The menu includes traditional dishes like Bibimbap (a rice bowl with sautéed vegetables and an egg), Kimbap (Korean sushi), Tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes), Chapchae (stir-fried glass noodles with vegetables) and Kimchi (famous fermented vegetables).
Bishareich (Chabad 64): A dairy restaurant situated in a stone house featuring oriental arches and located within walking distance from the Western Wall. On the menu, you'll find breakfasts, pastas, focaccias, lasagnas, sandwiches, salads, and pizzas. The venue can host events for up to 50 people.
Culinarium (Tiferet Israel 11): Since the COVID-19 pandemic, "The Quarter Cafe," which had been operational since 1975, pivoted its focus. Now, it specializes in business and family events. The menu offers meat dishes, dairy brunches, and vegetarian meals. There are also dishes inspired by biblical times. Situated near the Western Wall, it offers a stunning view of Jerusalem.
Between the Arches (HaGai 174): A gourmet kosher restaurant located near the Western Wall, housed in a preserved building from the 13th century. The menu features fish dishes (including a Jerusalem mixed grill version from the valleys) but is meat-free.