Above, raindrops descend gracefully from the sky, while the pavements below are adorned with a myriad of autumn leaves, painted in a vibrant array of fiery hues. Amid this serene New York winter scene, the shop windows come alive with the glow of festive Christmas decorations. However, amid this urban pastoral, one sight disrupts the tranquility: an unusually long queue extends along the intersection of Broadway and West 26th in downtown Manhattan.
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A puzzled onlooker interrupts, "What's happening here? This whole line just for ice cream?" Her question lingers without a response, while a boisterous group of Italian-speaking youths stands at the far end. "Finally, we have real Italian gelato in New York," one of them exclaims. Little do they know that this delightful frozen treat actually originates from Israel.
For the past two years, Anita La Mamma del Gelato has made its mark in New York CIty, cleverly adopting an Italian name in a remarkably successful marketing ploy that even manages to deceive Italian tourists. With a tinge of disappointment, they express their surprise, "We had no idea this was an Israeli gelato parlor; we were convinced it was purely Italian here." Their illusions shattered, they come to realize that Anita is more akin to a grandmother from Netanya than a mother from Florence.
In September 2020, Anita made its debut in the heart of the Jewish community on the Upper East Side, becoming an instant sensation with over a million customers served to this day. The initial success of the first branch was largely driven by the support and familiarity of those who knew the brand from Israel.
However, with the opening of the new downtown Manhattan location last April, the unsuspecting crowd is drawn in without any inkling of its connection to the Zionist enterprise. Nevertheless, the allure of Anita's ice cream knows no bounds, attracting the likes of Tennis star Serena Williams, pop sensation Selena Gomez and a throng of thousands who eagerly queue up each day.
Sufficient time has elapsed to affirm this is not a passing fad. New Yorkers have developed a deep affection for the unique blend of flavors and experiences offered at Anita's. They crave the fusion of salty pretzels, Bamba-infused ice cream, a sprinkling of za'atar crackers and even the occasional Omer Adam tune in the background, which subtly wafts from the speakers despite attempts to downplay the Israeli connection.
Just a few subway stops away, the original branch boasts the same familiar sight of a line forming outside. Among the eager patrons is Catalina, 31, patiently awaiting her turn to savor a delectable combination of hazelnut and cheesecake, priced at $7.25.
It's 45 degrees out. What are you doing here?
"I'm hooked. I've already been here four times. It's a bit pricey, but absolutely worth every penny. The flavors they offer are simply unmatched in New York. And the service? Exceptional. Just look at the line behind me, yet the staff always maintains a friendly and helpful demeanor. It's a rarity in this city. There's actually another ice cream parlor nearby, but I choose not to go there because the staff there isn't as pleasant. Here, even with all the rush, they always treat you with kindness."
Next to us stands Santiago, a 31-year-old tourist from Colombia, capturing the mesmerizing golden showcase with his camera. "I'm sending these pictures to my girlfriend back home," he gushes. "This ice cream is sensational. We have to bring it to Colombia. I love the design here, it looks like a candy store. I haven't seen anything like this in New York. Most ice cream parlors in the city are small, but here you can actually sit and relax. And the service is outstanding."
Thomas, a 30-year-old local, overhears our conversation and sheepishly admits the reason that brought him here. "I live in the neighborhood, and I always see this line," he confesses. "You know, when there's a line for something, it's a sign that it's good. People are willing to wait. So I had to give it a try. It's interesting that for just a few extra cents, you can enjoy three flavors. That's how they spoil you here, I guess."
However, beyond the captivating Italian branding, exceptional service, enticing design and the distinct Israeli atmosphere, the main reason behind the perpetual queue is perhaps more straightforward: the essence of gelato itself.
While gelato is the Italian term for ice cream, there exists a disparity between traditional ice cream and gelato. Ice cream is typically crafted from cream, milk, sugar and egg yolks, whereas gelato is composed of a higher proportion of milk, less cream, no eggs and possesses a lower fat content. The texture of gelato is notably creamier and denser.
In the case of Anita's gelato, another key ingredient dominates the recipe: sugar. There is no subtle way to state this—the sweetness of Anita's gelato is grotesquely strong, surpassing that of its artisanal competitors in town. It's not merely that the slogan here is "LIFE IS SWEET!"—it is a testament to the American palate's affinity for sugary delights. On average, Americans consume a staggering 100 grams of sugar per day, significantly higher than the average Israeli's consumption of less than 14 grams.
Indeed, when comparing sugar consumption on a global scale, Israel ranks quite low. However, it remains undeniable that the average American consumes nearly double the amount of sugar when compared to global standards.
Sugar holds a central role in the culinary landscape of Americans, permeating their plates and beverage choices. It takes the spotlight even in unexpected places, such as soups, salads, meats, fish and appetizers. With its addictive properties, sugar consumption often leads to a cycle of increased sugar intake. From a young age, Americans find themselves inadvertently drawn into this world, as sweet milk drinks replace alcoholic beverages during social outings at dairy bars.
The United States has undeniably developed an intense obsession with sugar, and its roots can be traced back to a multitude of socio-political factors deeply ingrained in the country's history and contemporary standard of living. This obsession bears a striking resemblance to the profound reverence for wine found in France. In both cases, these institutions shape an entire constellation of values, status symbols, beliefs, tastes, choices and culinary and leisure habits.
In the United States, sugar embodies much more than just sweetness. It represents an entire approach to life. For many, indulging in a Coca-Cola or a sweet milkshake alongside a meal has become a tradition that provides a moment of comfort and respite from the monotony of daily routines. It has also become a symbol of leisure culture, encapsulating the notion of relaxation and enjoyment that seeps into various aspects of American society.
The significance of sugar in American culture extends beyond its taste, reflecting a complex interplay of historical, economic and societal factors. These factors, including the subsidy of farmers and the influence of the food industry, have contributed to the prominence of sugar and its pervasive presence in American lives.
Hence, it comes as no surprise that the indulgent sweetness of Anita's ice cream, which may induce heartburn for those unaccustomed to such elevated levels of sweetness, finds a receptive audience in the city. The network acknowledges that, specifically for the American clientele, they have expanded the "Vrigato" section, offering an array of sweet decorations and toppings. This caters to the American preference for generous chunks of chocolate, almonds, cookies and pretzels embedded in their ice cream. This differs from the European and Israeli preference for smoother, less sweet ice creams adorned with a subtle drizzle.
Dogs are crazy about it
(Video: Matan Turkia)
However, the network also recognizes the importance of catering to the discerning New York consumer who pays close attention to what they consume. Consequently, they have endeavored to provide alternatives without sugar, gluten, dairy and other dietary restrictions. The desolate display of the yogurt section in the branches is a testament to the fact that, for the time being, Americans may not fully embrace this tangy trend that advocates for healthier options.
Despite the presence of local ice cream parlors offering lower prices, they find themselves deserted in the shadow of Anita's branches. The competition is unable to withstand the sweeping success of Anita, leading some owners of rival parlors to express their concerns privately, attributing Anita's dominance as a sweet triumph over their businesses.
While Anita has firmly established itself in New York CIty, it is interesting to note that they initially overlooked the opportunity to expand to Austin, Texas, which has a significant Israeli presence. However, the chain has acknowledged this oversight and plans to rectify it by opening another branch in New York City's bustling Times Square within the next six months. The investment for this venture is estimated at one and a half million dollars. Additionally, construction is underway for the Miami branch and the second branch in Puerto Rico, signifying the brand's continued expansion beyond the Big Apple.
"We receive a lot of proposals, mainly from Jewish enterprises," says Adi Avital, the CEO and founder of Anita, "but we need strong cooperation because NYC rent is insane. Beyond that, there is of course the operational challenge. We make our ice cream on-site from morning to night, it's really an ice cream school, and we need the right people who specialize in this profession. It's not easy to find a good local team."
"In the beginning, the workers would be flown from Israel especially to the United States," admits Avital, "but little by little the transition to local workers is noticeable, and accordingly - less Mediterranean tunes in the background. Israelis still run the business, but we think like an international chain. We hardly deal with the Anita Israel brand anymore; we try to distance it from Israeliness."
Weary of an anti-Israeli boycott?
"We are very proud of our Israeliness, but at the same time, we really want non-Jews to know us as well. We are trying to lower our profile in Israel and think like an international chain; otherwise, we simply will not survive. There are very beautiful ice cream parlors in New York, and the competition is not easy. Anita's character and visibility today are adapted to the city."
Avital reflects on the challenging journey they faced, as in the beginning, not a single local entrepreneur agreed to rent out a store to the Israeli brand. "I love New York; it's the place I like to be the most, and it was always a personal dream of mine to open branches here," he shares. "But for many, many years, no one agreed to a rental agreement with us because we are Israelis. They didn't want to give us a chance. The food market is already problematic, so entrepreneurs are always looking for well-known international brands, and certainly not ones embroiled in boycotts."
Additionally, the chain is completely secular, far from the observant Jewish lifestyle normally so prevalent in many NYC boroughs.
"We're entirely secular," explains Avital. "We operate on weekends and have no plans to close our stores. Our raw materials are kosher-certified, but we don't rely on the supervision of the rabbinate. We appeal to a diverse audience that values convenience over strict adherence to traditional norms. Our growth started with word-of-mouth within the Jewish community, but it has since expanded far beyond that."
What is the main reason people are flocking here?
"To establish a strong brand in New York, you can't simply rely on the appeal of ice cream alone. We focus on creating a visually captivating experience that brings joy to our customers. From the overall ambiance to the lighting and music, everything is designed to create a sense of celebration. It's more than just eating ice cream; it's about offering an immersive experience. This concept is new to New Yorkers. They have never been invited to indulge in unlimited ice cream, sit back and enjoy it in such a pleasant environment. When they taste our creations, they can't help but be amazed at the sheer goodness that envelops them."