After 25 years, a change came to the Hilton hotel restaurant: the last Yakimono restaurant, a pioneer of Japanese cuisine in Israel, closed its doors. In its place, a second branch of the long-standing Onami restaurant opened.
The restaurant in the Hilton opened in 1998 when no one knew what sushi was, how to say it or how to eat it. It operated until the outbreak of the war. The iconic branch of Yakimono on Rothschild Boulevard in Tel Aviv closed in late 2021 after 22 years of activity. Now, eight years after the death of its founder, Avi Cohen, the restaurant in Hilton, which was the last remnant of his life's work, has also closed.
In its place, a second Onami restaurant has opened. The first and well-known location opened 26 years ago on HaArba'a Street in Tel Aviv, and alongside Yakimono and Kyoto, was one of the first Japanese restaurants in Israel.
Onami was established by seasoned restaurateur Oded Gonen, 55, who made sure to stay under the radar over the years, avoiding publicity and media interviews.
With over three decades in the culinary world, Gonen boasts an impressive track record. Before Onami, he owned the renowned Sea Bass restaurant in Yehuda Halevi Street and, earlier in his career, was engaged in seafood and fish marketing, working closely with other restaurateurs. During that time, he partnered with the Cohen brothers from Kimono. Twenty-six years ago, he decided to return to the restaurant business and founded Onami, followed by Tapao restaurant. Both had branches in Herzliya as well.
He later opened Oven Coven, provided consultancy services for overseas restaurants, and launched food chains in Africa. Throughout his journey, he has partnered with Meir Dayan, his business associate of the past 30 years.
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'I don't believe in the Israeli restaurant business in a chain format.' Onami
(Photo: Nimrod Cohen)
The move is surprising – a kosher restaurant in a luxury hotel on the beach.
"They asked me to open an Onami restaurant in the Hilton after October 7. It was like a gift from heaven because instead of focusing on the war and the horrors, I could focus on my business and work."
And now you're stepping into Yakimono’s shoes.
"I'm very connected to Yakimono and have been in close contact with Avi, of blessed memory, and Eli over the years. There was always a good relationship between Onami and Yakimono, and there was never any competition between us. Avi brought Japanese tools to the country when no one else dared; he was a pioneer."
Why haven't you opened another Onami all these years?
"At some point, there was a thought of opening a chain called Onami, but it didn't work out and won't happen in the future either. I don't believe in the Israeli restaurant business in a chain format. I don't think creating a chain of equally good restaurants is possible. I feel that, with many restaurants, I can't fully express myself as I would like. Five years ago, I closed all my activities abroad and sold all the restaurants I owned because I wanted to relax a bit. The restaurant business is the most demanding profession, and anyone wanting to make a career in this field should understand that it requires a lot of focus and patience. We didn't run to look for new adventures."
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Isn't it scary to open a restaurant in times like these?
"There's nothing scarier than the times we're in, but I've been in the restaurant business for so many years, I feel like I know exactly what I'm doing. We all agree that the war will eventually end, and things will return to normal. People go to the movies, the theater or a restaurant to escape reality for a moment; it's a basic human need. And yes, even now, people are going out and having fun. These are times when people need to breathe a little or have a drink."
What do you think about the return of the Japanese food wave to our lives?
"I think Japanese food is perfect for this generation. Young people seek comforting food, and Japanese cuisine fits the bill. Sushi and sashimi are delicate dishes that are easy to enjoy. I opened Onami after Takamaru when Japanese food was completely new here, and not everyone understood the flavors. Today, sushi is basic food."
'Kosher regulations pushed me to be creative'
At Onami's kosher branch at the Hilton Hotel, he’s closing a circle with an old friend - Chef Roy Soffer, 53, who began his career in Onami’s kitchen with the late chef Aya Imanti, from the Yamatoya restaurant in Hod Hasharon.
"I didn't realize how difficult and challenging opening a kosher Japanese restaurant would be. It was a tough nut to crack, and there's probably a reason why no one else had done it before," Soffer admits. "I make most things myself, like dashi broth, which is supposed to be kosher but doesn’t have a kosher certification, so I developed my own kosher recipe, and that’s my secret."
Soffer is a veteran chef remembered from restaurants like Takamaru and Pangaya. Today, he is a lecturer in the culinary program at the Bishulim cooking school and a consultant in Israel and abroad. He was first introduced to Japanese cuisine while living in Japan after his military service. Upon his return to Israel, he met Aya.
"She welcomed me into the kitchen of Takamaru, where I learned everything. Then we continued together at Onami, and now I'm meeting Oded again." Gonen also recruited Soffer to refine the menu of the flagship restaurant.
"I built the menu at the Hilton from scratch, focusing on authentic Japanese cuisine. The rolls are accurate in size, and the concept was returning to the origins of Japanese food. Rather than making Asian fusion, we've stayed loyal to Japan. We serve authentic, bold flavors to a public who is not used to them," explains Chef Soffer.
How similar is the kosher Hilton restaurant to the original Onami?
"The menu is different but shares some dishes. I've added a Josper oven to the kitchen to give a new flavor dimension to the food. Kosher regulations pushed me to be more creative. We have a lot of raw fish here, prepared using modern techniques. Already at the menu development phase, we realized we didn't want this restaurant to be a replica of Onami on HaArba'a Street, and because of the kosher restrictions and its limited size, we can invest much more.”