Aside from the human tragedies, the protracted war in Gaza continues to take its toll on the economy – including, of course, the hospitality industry. While hotels have been able to offset their losses partially by hosting evacuees from the southern and northern borders, restaurants and eateries have not been so fortunate.
Indeed, a great many establishments – including the stellar Tel Aviv restaurants Kamakura and Olé, and the popular Ben Ami in Jerusalem – have had to close, some permanently. A quick drive or stroll along HaYarkon Street in Tel Aviv is all it takes to witness the number of places that used to be thriving and are now shuttered, including one of the saddest stories of all: Mena by Menachem, which lost two of its waitresses in the Nova party massacre.
Still, there are quite a few that are somehow managing to survive. The following restaurants are among the gutsy ones that are now operating, most after having had to close temporarily, primarily due to manpower shortages caused by the mobilization of IDF reserves. Some went through worse.
Of course, the most important reason that these restaurants are succeeding is, quite simply, that each and every one serves delicious food; it is the kitchen, and not merely the history, that earns it a place on our list. The entries below – which range from fine dining to ethnic, and from wine bar to brunch – are, as always, not ranked; rather, they appear in alphabetical order.
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Cafe Otef has opened two kosher coffee shops, with limited menus but encompassing delis and gift shops on their respective premises
(Photo: Sivan Faraj)
First, however, special mention of a new chain that was born “out of the ashes,” so to speak: Cafe Otef, founded by the second generation of residents of Moshav Netiv HaAsarah, one of the Gaza border settlements that suffered unspeakable losses on October 7. Two kosher coffee shops, with limited menus but encompassing delis and gift shops on their respective premises, are now open: one in Sarona Park, and the second – Cafe Otef Reim, in tribute to the kibbutz that was also devastated that day – in Florentin. Motivated by the motto “We shall thrive again,” the fledgling chain plans to expand out of Tel Aviv and return to southern Israel, to help kickstart the economic rebirth of that stricken region.
Arianna
Backstory: Chef/owner Ran Alkoby has earned his resilience chops the hard way, after several years of ups and downs. His first restaurant had to close because of COVID-19, and his comeback has been the victim of the most unfortunate timing: The grand opening of Arianna had to be scaled back, since the suburban wine bar launched just three days after the war started, only to close again for several months before reopening.
Drinks: Arianna is the only wine bar featured here, so by definition wine is the beverage of choice. What puts Arianna in a league of its own, however, is its 120 wines available by the glass – the largest such selection in the country. Also unique is its concept of “journeys” – flights of wine tastings, in four carefully curated categories. Another attraction is the “happy hour”: 20% off all wines and food every evening – even weekends – until 7:30 p.m. (except journeys).
Menu: Besides the extensive, detailed wine list compiled by wine expert and importer Idan Oz – distinctive in its breakdown not only by six major types but also 12 descriptive categories, Chef Alkoby has designed a gourmet food menu meant to be paired with the wines and plated with sharing in mind. The one-page bilingual food menu is untitled, with dishes roughly progressing in size and offering plenty of variety: salads, al dente vegetable combinations, raw fish, pasta/pizzas and steak. There are more than ample vegetarian/vegan and gluten-free options, plus mouthwatering desserts.
Recommended: Oaxaca (a cocktail that contains wine); the house focaccia; cauliflower tabbouleh, Spanish artichokes, beets in skordalia sauce; cherry sashimi, Mediterranean carpaccio; butcher’s cut bites; Valhrona chocolate mousse (dessert).
Arianna Wine Bar. Not kosher. 4 Atir Yeda St. 4, Kfar Saba. Tel. (077) 444-7039.
Backstage Café
Backstory: The venue of the distinctive lobby of the Backstage Hotel, on the site of the former Ohel Theatre, has already managed to go through several iterations in the short history of this boutique hotel belonging to the Atlas chain. At one point, it was home to both the Backstage brunch during the daytime and the Stanley Lounge at night (the latter now permanently closed). The cafe’s popular brunch was interrupted for a while when the war began, but it has now bounced back better than ever.
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Decor of the Backstage Cafe reflects the thespian history of the premises
(Photo: Buzzy Gordon)
Ambiance: The decor reflects the thespian history of the premises, now furnished largely with plush couches for relaxed and comfortable seating. The buffet area is not large, but it still manages to accommodate a lavish spread. A friendly wait staff complements the self-service component of the buffet. A pleasant soundtrack plays unobtrusively in the background.
Drinks: As befits an upscale buffet brunch, iced bottles of cava – plus pre-mixed mimosas – are on hand throughout the meal, together with other healthful fresh juices. Unlimited refills of coffee and tea accompany the food.
Menu: The food service follows the typical brunch format: a multi-tiered tray of small plates served to the table, supplemented by repeated trips to the buffet and a more than adequate selection to choose from of one main course hot dish included in the fixed price.
Recommended: From the buffet: the breads, spreads and pastries; among the main courses: the croissant eggs Benedict and the bread pudding with egg and tarragon salad.
The Backstage Café. Not kosher. 6 Beilinson Street, Tel Aviv. Tel. (03) 920-7777.
Flame
Backstory: The only open-fire grill restaurant in town (reviewed by this writer when it first opened) was forced to close for four months at the beginning of war, as much of the staff – and even the owner – were called up for military reserve duty. The fine dining restaurant in the beachfront Carlton Hotel reopened recently with a bang, having managed to recruit talented Chef Oren Asido (formerly of the late, lamented restaurant Olé) to helm the kitchen.
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Flame has installed its imposing parilla (Argentinian grill) in an open kitchen
(Photo: Buzzy Gordon)
Ambiance: In the space that was once Chef Meir Adoni’s Lumina, Flame has installed its imposing parilla (Argentinian grill) in an open kitchen. Just opposite is a display of the steaks that are being carefully aged in-house. Comfortable indoor seating is complemented by two al fresco patio areas – one for smokers – overlooking the beach and sea. The restaurant also has large and small private rooms, which are shared with wine cellars. Yet another room houses a cozy bar and lounge.
Drinks: The al fresco terraces are superb for sipping one of five specialty cocktails, while watching a magnificent sunset over the Mediterranean. The restaurant has a reasonable wine list for a kosher restaurant, but availability by the glass is extremely limited – a quite unfortunate situation when red wine is the perfect pairing for Flame’s extraordinary steaks. There is but one beer, bottled Israeli Goldstar (sometimes also on tap).
Menu: The two-page bilingual menu comprises four sections: appetizers, entrées, main courses (poultry, fish and meat), and steaks. There are very few options for vegetarians or vegans that would constitute a full meal, but there is no lack of gluten-free options. The prime steaks feature all the best-known cuts, most priced by weight. There are three side dishes on the printed menu, and three (pareve) desserts that are explained by the wait staff.
Recommended: Donna Rosa (cocktail); fish tartare in tomato gazpacho, sirloin bruschetta, tuna sashimi in celery cream; any of the cuts of steak, especially the filet mignon; mashed potatoes; lemon mousse with berry sorbet (dessert).
Flame @ the Carlton Hotel. Kosher. 10 Eliezer Peri St., Tel Aviv. Tel. (073) 338-3833
FRONT by Reviva and Celia
Backstory: Arguably, the most tragic tale of this roundup – the son of the owner was killed in battle on the first day of the war. Not surprisingly, the venerable Reviva and Celia – an institution in the “old north” of Tel Aviv – was closed during the week of shiva. Immediately afterward, however, the staff rallied around the grieving CEO, and took charge of all three of the restaurant’s divisions – the dining room, the gourmet shop-cum-bakery and the pizzeria – in order to keep them running.
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The culinary theme rotates each year at Front, and this summer pays tribute to Greek cuisine
(Photo: Buzzy Gordon)
Ambiance: FRONT is the extra section of the restaurant that opens during the summer season, on an extension of the front patio, where evening al fresco diners enjoy cooling breezes whooshing through the wind tunnel formed by surrounding high-rise buildings. The culinary theme rotates each year, and this summer pays tribute to Greek cuisine. Accordingly, the soundtrack is Greek music, played at a comfortable volume level.
Drinks: Not surprisingly, the beverages this summer reflect the reigning ethnic theme, featuring ouzo – both straight and mixed in specially cocktails – wine and beer imported from our Mediterranean neighbor. Of course, one may also order from the restaurant’s regular international wine list, with most vintages available by glass. In addition, Israeli beer is served, on tap and in bottles.
Menu: A special Greek menu is featured, alongside the main restaurant’s regular menu, which comprises four sections: petit, salads, pasta and mains. Additionally, rotating special dishes are also offered daily, while pizzas and Italian entrees may even be ordered from the adjacent Reviva and Celia pizzeria. There are sufficient vegetarian/vegan and gluten-free options. The tantalizing array of signature desserts comes from the famous on-site Reviva and Celia bakery.
Recommended: Ouzo spritz, Greek mule (cocktails); the house milk rolls with skordalia (Greek garlic dip); artichoke with herbs and labaneh, zucchini fritters; avocado and cured salmon salad; almond ricotta cake, raspberry panna cotta (desserts).
Reviva and Celia. Not kosher. G Tzameret Mall, 10 Nissim Aloni St., Tel Aviv. Tel. (03) 546-6090.
Note: There is also a branch of the restaurant in Ramat Hasharon.
Le Mala
Backstory: Le Mala closed as a restaurant as soon as the war began, but immediately shifted into volunteer mode – the kitchen was filled with mothers of the employees cooking for soldiers, while a community of loyal customers were busy packing and delivering the food parcels. After a month-and-a-half, the restaurant reopened halfheartedly, just in the evenings – the weekday value lunches also became a victim of the times. Just recently, weekend afternoon brunches were instituted.
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The extensive menu at Le Mala comprises five sections – appetizers, tacos, tamales, mains and desserts – and is updated daily with the addition of rotating specials
(Photo: Buzzy Gordon)
Ambiance: The restaurant is located one flight up in a tenement-style building whose entrance is a bit intimidating. Once inside, however, the Latin-disco atmosphere is colorful and funky, with lively salsa music as the soundtrack. The place is invariably crowded, and not meant for intimate conversation. The clientele is all ages – from families with children to senior citizens.
Drinks: The full bar serves no fewer than 11 specialty cocktails (or variations on classics), complemented by imported and domestic beers on tap and in bottles. Appropriately for accompanying Mexican food, there is a greater selection of beers than wine, although all the few offered vintages are also available by the glass.
Menu: The bilingual menu is digital, meant to be downloaded via QR code, although one may request a printed version. The extensive menu comprises five sections – appetizers, tacos, tamales, mains and desserts, and is updated daily with the addition of rotating specials. There are more than adequate vegetarian/vegan and gluten-free options. The weekend lunches feature a hearty burrito that is generally not available during the week.
Recommended: Pepino y tequila, Kiwi Bahia (cocktails); the house nachos, Thailand-Mexico salad, fish in ajo blanco sauce; fried fish taco; chicken tamale; polenta del mar (with grilled shrimps); churros (dessert).
Le Mala. Not kosher. 5 Shvil HaMeretz, Tel Aviv. Tel. (03) 682-3486.
Lunel Mediterranean Brasserie
Backstory: Lunel – sister restaurant to the stricken Mena referenced above – shut down at the beginning of the war when Chef Inon El Al was among the first to be called up for reserve military service. Lunel reopened when he returned, and is managing to stay open, even though the chef has since been recalled for a second tour of reserve duty.
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Lunel is managing to stay open, even though the chef has been recalled for a second stint of reserve duty
(Photo: Buzzy Gordon)
Ambiance: The distinctive decor is characterized by table seating arranged in concentric half-circles around the bar. The expansive al fresco area is also slightly circular, with a mix of high- and low-rise tables positioned on a wooden deck. There is a pleasant soundtrack of eclectic, mellow vocal music.
Drinks: There are three sections of cocktails – classic, summer and specialty. The international wine list is not long, but there is something for everyone, and an adequate selection by the glass. Two imported beers are available, one on tap and one bottled.
Menu: The fusion menu bears French and Yemenite influences, even though the chef trained in a Michelin-starred restaurant in Mexico. The menu comprises five untitled sections that may be defined as bread, starters, vegetarian, entrees and main courses. Five desserts, prepared by a dedicated pastry chef, are explained by the wait staff. Lunel has now incorporated Mena’s popular brunch on weekends, while weekdays feature happy hour discounts until 7:00 p.m..
Recommended: Florentin Four (cocktail); kubaneh; sashimi in garlic yogurt soup, sirloin bruschetta, fish tartare on lahouh; pasta; crème brûlée topped with fresh cherries and grapes.
Lunel. Not kosher. 72 Abarbanel St., Tel Aviv. Tel. (077) 980-0339.
Oasis
Backstory: This fine dining restaurant by American-Israeli chef Rima Olvera closed for three months at the start of the war in order to cook for soldiers. It reopened with a slightly slimmed-down menu, which fortunately still features beloved classic Oasis dishes. Another major change: the rear garden, once home to the lunchtime Mexican El Gato Azul, is now the setting for a new wine bar, Rehab. (Note: watch these pages for a future review.)
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Oasis' revamped dinner menu consists of first courses and mains, occasionally supplemented by specials from Taco Tuesdays, as well as small plates from the wine bar
(Photo: Buzzy Gordon)
Ambiance: The indoor seating area is elegantly intimate, with comfortable seating and a handsome bar. There is a small, informal al fresco counter on the front sidewalk, plus a pleasant rear patio that serves Oasis diners as well as those coming for the separate Rehab menu. An eclectic rhythmic soundtrack plays at just the right level of volume.
Drinks: The full bar serves a few excellent twists on classic cocktails. The international wine list is professionally curated, with many vintages suitable for pairing with the gourmet cuisine, and an adequate selection available by the glass. Two imported brands of beer are available. Another innovation is the nightly happy hour, offering 15% off all wine and drinks until 8:00 p.m.
Menu: The revamped dinner menu consists of first courses and mains, occasionally supplemented by specials from “Taco Tuesdays,” as well as small plates from the wine bar. There are sufficient gluten-free and vegetarian options, and slightly fewer vegan ones. The separate dessert menu usually comprises five items, all creations by Chef Olvera.
Recommended: The “perfect” margarita (cocktail); prosciutto di Parma (when available); rump steak taco; [the legendary Oasis] zucchini salad, cherry salad (in season); lobster risotto, gnocchetti di sardi; fresh fruit carpaccio (the best of the season) bruléed with Szechuan pepper sugar (dessert).
Oasis. Not kosher. 17 Montefiore St., Tel Aviv. Tel. (03) 620-6022.
Santé
Backstory: Another case of horrendous timing – less than a month after opening his bistro in September, Chef Assaf Zarog was called up to fight on the first day of the war. After his return from active service, he vacillated about whether to reopen but decided to give it a go — to the delight of discerning suburban diners.
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Sante's cuisine by Chef Zarog, who trained under Michelin-starred Israeli chef Assaf Granit, is defined as French with Tunisian influences
(Photo: Buzzy Gordon)
Ambiance: Located opposite Arianna (see above), Santé is one of the anchors of the massive Oshiland mall’s outdoor restaurant compound. The large bistro – with two indoor areas and al fresco seating in a courtyard at the entrance to the shopping mall – boasts a modern, elegant decor, with comfortable chairs at tables and stools at the bar. The soundtrack is contemporary easy listening, playing at a reasonable level.
Drinks: The full bar serves six specialty cocktails. There is a more than adequate international wine list, with many selections by the glass, and even a separate section devoted to sangria.
In addition to the house draft beer, there are imported beers on tap and in bottles (including a gluten-free brew and Israeli craft beers).
Menu: The bistro’s cuisine by Chef Zarog, who trained under Michelin-starred Israeli chef Assaf Granit, is defined as French with Tunisian influences. The bilingual dinner menu comprises four sections – starters, salads, Italian (pastas) and mains – supplemented by a separate summer menu (Hebrew only). There is an adequate number of vegetarian/vegan and gluten-free options. The chef’s separate dessert menu lists five choices.
Recommended: Midori fresh, spicy margarita (cocktails); tuna tartare, yakitori sweetbread, summer salad; pappardelle pasta with fish fillet; semifreddo vanilla crème brûlée.
Santé. Not kosher. 4 Atir Yeda st., Kfar Saba. Tel. (072) 264-9288.
Shishko
Backstory: The venerable Shishko has had to cope with two disruptions: it closed for a month after the war broke out and has since relocated to an entirely new location, because with Allenby Street torn up by the construction of the Metro, patrons had difficulty accessing the former premises. The resto-bar is now situated where the former Kovshim restaurant used to be, between the beach and the Carmelit bus terminal. The war is still impacting Shishko: its famous “drunken brunch” has been put on hold until the summer, because of staff shortages caused by call-ups to reserve duty (miluim).
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Shishko's food menu still gives pride of place to its Balkan/Bulgarian heritage
(Photo: Buzzy Gordon)
Ambiance: There is a small indoor area, with only three tables and limited bar seating. Most patrons prefer to sit on the Nehemia Street sidewalk al fresco area, which enjoys cooling sea breezes. There is more al fresco seating on HaKovshim Street; in fact, the two intersecting outdoor areas are divided into smoking and non-smoking sections. The pleasant classic rock music soundtrack is less audible outside, and is even paused on Shabbat, out of respect for the neighbors. There are plans to enclose the outside areas in the winter.
Drinks: Shishko has long been known for its tradition of treating patrons to frequent rounds of complimentary shots (“chasers”), be they ouzo or port. The full bar serves no fewer than eight specialty cocktails, as well as mostly imported beers, on tap and in bottles. There is an impressive international wine list for such an informal restaurant, with an adequate selection of vintages available by the glass.
Menu: The food menu still gives pride of place to its Balkan/Bulgarian heritage, even though the dishes are now prepared by a new chef formerly of Dinings, the upscale Japanese restaurant at the Norman boutique hotel. The bilingual menu comprises five sections (not counting the entire mini-loaf of fresh challah listed as a starter): appetizers, vegetarian, fish/seafood, grill and sweets. There are ample gluten-free and vegetarian/vegan options, although only two desserts.
Recommended: Orange thyme, Bermuda mule (cocktails); Amos’ ikra, chopped liver; seared artichokes; grilled shrimp on herbed yogurt; the beef-lamb kebabs and sliders (the latter mini-hamburgers a new addition); chocolate mousse (dessert). There is also a recommended time to come: the weekday happy hour (4 p.m.-7 p.m.) offers a whopping 30% off everything, food and drinks.
Shishko. Not kosher. 48 HaKovshim St., Tel Aviv. Tel. (073) 759-0001.
- Note: The writer was a guest of the restaurants. However, all opinions are his own.