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This is an expensive trip, and no one promises you'll enjoy every moment. Dealing with extreme weather and strict regulations, detailed later, are just part of the challenges awaiting those who choose to embark on a journey to South Georgia Islands. Travel blogger Ohad the Nomad went on a 17-day cruise from Chile to the frozen islands, nestled in the southern Atlantic Ocean between South America and Antarctica. There, he encountered penguins, fur seals, elephant seals, and a variety of marine creatures. Each encounter was not only a magnificent experience of nature but also a powerful lesson about life on Earth. "No matter what happens in the future, these experiences will stay with me forever," he said in an interview with Ynet.
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Magical Penguins
The journey, organized by the nature photography company "Phototeva," began with a cruise from Punta Arenas port in Chile, at the edge of the world. "We departed from a charming port city and sailed south, into the frozen sea," Ohad recalls. "There were days of high waves and freezing winds, but all of that was part of the experience." On the way to South Georgia, Ohad and the group stopped at the Falkland Islands, located not far from Argentina, about 870 miles from the final destination of the journey. "The Falkland Islands are a special place, both historically due to the war fought there between Britain and Argentina in 1982, and because of the nature—there are so many fascinating animals there, like penguins and rare birds."
Back to South Georgia Islands. Visiting the islands, like many sensitive natural areas in the world, requires ongoing efforts to protect the environment and its wildlife. Ohad describes the strict rules enforced both on the ship and onshore to protect the island from external pollutants and foreign threats that could disrupt the ecological balance.
"Before arriving at the island, everything had to be sanitized—anything that came into contact with the ground. We constantly had to disinfect our clothes, belongings, and even our shoes. Attention to detail was critical. Almost every day before heading ashore, we underwent meticulous disinfection—every shoe, every zipper, every Velcro strap. Even water bottles—anything that could carry bacteria."
Ohad recounts that the regulations were so strict that even using the bathroom became a challenge. "It was forbidden to urinate on the island. Even if you had to—there was nothing you could do. No bathrooms, no designated places for that. So, we were careful not to drink too much water or coffee because if we drank too much, we had to hold it in for hours. That was a challenge in itself."
Even shoes that could carry seeds of foreign plants were forbidden to avoid harming the local balance. "If you bring something from the mainland, it could change the ecosystem. They paid attention to every tiny detail. Even our belongings underwent thorough cleaning with vacuum cleaners and brushes to ensure we didn’t bring anything from the outside world. The island already has 20 invasive plant species, and they don't want to add more." Scientists and inspectors present on-site ensured that the guidelines were strictly followed. "They left no room for error. This is a trip where you can’t just step wherever you want—every step on the island was planned and defined, and everyone followed the rules."
"Standing on the shore, surrounded by thousands of penguins" Visiting South Georgia offers travelers an extraordinary experience of face-to-face encounters with a variety of rare animal species. "It’s not trivial," says Ohad. "It’s not something I’ve experienced anywhere else. To feel the power of this nature, to see all these animals—it just makes you realize how small we are within all of this."
One of the most unforgettable moments was the encounter with the penguins, an experience Ohad describes as nothing short of magical: "They all marched in an orderly fashion, each with its orange neck—it just didn’t feel real. It’s like seeing a penguin the height of a small child, only much more colorful."
But the truly impressive moment happened when he suddenly found himself surrounded by thousands of penguins. "I was standing on the shore, and suddenly countless penguins appeared in front of me. They arrived quickly, tick-tick-tick, climbing onto the shore, and suddenly I was surrounded on all sides. I was alone on the shore with thousands of penguins—it was an indescribable sight. The way they flowed around you felt like standing at the center of a natural story that no one could invent."
Surprisingly, the penguins were not afraid of the presence of humans. "What was so special was that they didn’t run away; they weren’t scared—they just stood there, going about their business," Ohad says. "It felt like you weren’t disturbing them—they just continued living their lives."
One of the most fascinating encounters was with the elephant seals, massive and impressive creatures. "Elephant seals belong to the seal family, but they’re not like the regular seals—they’re much larger," Ohad explains. "An alpha male can weigh up to five tons. It’s not something you see every day. An elephant seal can be the size of a small elephant—it’s just crazy to see such a giant creature lounging on the beach."
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The social dynamics between the alpha male and the female elephant seals are nothing short of amazing. "The large male takes control of a good spot on the beach, and around him gather 28 females—all pregnant. It’s a crazy sight to see them clustering around him, living entire lives in such an intense relationship system." Beyond their impressive size, elephant seals are also known for their aggressive behavior. "They are very territorial," warns Ohad. "Each male fights to maintain control. If another male tries to come close, a battle begins that could end in death. It’s a true survival fight, and each one fights for his place."
The main island, South Georgia, stretches for about 105 miles, with its widest point measuring about 23 miles. The island is characterized by tall, rugged mountains, with peaks rising to over 2,190 yards, and glaciers reaching the coastline. It was first discovered in 1675 by London sailor Anthony de la Roché, who named the islands "Peeps Islands" after Samuel Pepys, the British Admiralty Secretary at the time. In 1775, James Cook rediscovered the island and its surrounding smaller islands, naming them "South Georgia" after King George III. Today, there are no permanent residents on South Georgia, and typically about 30 people live on the island at any given time, most of them scientists. "South Georgia is right at the edge of the world, before the ice begins," Ohad says. "It’s right across from Antarctica—the skies are always clear, and the air is so dry, like in a desert. And that’s exactly what it is—a glacial desert." Ohad claims that contrary to popular belief, Antarctica is not just endless snowstorms but a true desert. "The snow there doesn’t really melt, and that’s what defines it as the largest desert in the world."
How was the voyage?
"There were days with waves 10 meters high—the whole ship rocked; we slept while being tossed around. I took anti-nausea pills because it wasn’t easy. It was crazy, and freezing too—we reached temperatures of -4 degrees Fahernheit, and sometimes it felt even colder."
The price of such a trip, in case you were wondering, is about €15,000, not including flights to Chile. "It’s an unforgettable experience," concludes Ohad. "Often, we live so fast, without stopping to appreciate what’s around us. But in a place like South Georgia, you realize how small we are and how amazing it is to be part of this universe. Every moment there reminds me why I started traveling, why I choose again and again to leave the familiar and keep wandering. If there’s one thing I learned from this journey, it’s not to take anything for granted. The sea, the cold, the animals—they all bring me back to the simplicity of life and make me live every day as if it’s my last."